Checking in to Grande Anse D'Arlet

Hi:

Laurie here.

We are in Grande Anse D'Arlet. We arrived mid-morning yesterday, after stopping under Q flag in St. Pierre the night before, and slowly put the boat to right before going ashore to check in with customs and immigration. While we were busy, and, actually taking a break, in waltzes the 48 foot "Spyglass", a friend from last year. Chris had left his boat near ours in Peakes Boat Yard, Trinidad; and flew home feeling not well. While back in Vancouver, he finally got a correct diagnosis of a heart virus. He made what is considered a miraculous recovery, and is sailing around again, late in the season, trying to decide if he should continue single-handing down here with what is a "for-life" disease that could debilitate or kill rather quickly. Regardless, he's upbeat and it was great to spend time with him and his daughter.

At any rate, it was great to see him, and visit with him and his visiting daughter Kate.

s/v Spyglass sails in and anchors right beside Cat Tales. We were very excited to see Chris out this season after his health scare!


Chris, from Sypglass on the right. Laurie on the left.


Kate, Chris' daughter visiting for the next week or so.


Here is Kate negotiating a car rental (She speaks fluent French). The office was closed the first time we went in to see them, but now that it's open, we find out that they only have one car and the car has been rented out for the next several days to the gentleman on the right in the background. Oh well, off to the next port to see if they might have another to offer!

Together we went in to clear Customs. However, there is a new round of strikes in the French islands this year. A month or so ago, very little could be had because the dockworkers wanted more money. Now there are rolling power blackouts because the utility workers want their share. So, initially we could not clear in, because the little bistro that has the Customs computer had no power. We asked for an ice cream bar, but the girl said she would not open any refrigeration while there is an outage.

We went for a walk, and a couple of drinks at a bar at the far end of the beach where they were less afraid to open their fridges. We came back after the power was reestablished, and she sat us down to the computer. We could check in, but not get a paper copy of the procedure, as they were out of paper. Well, that is a little useless to us, as we need the paper for other offices down the timeline. I finally printed mine on the backside of an older clearance, and the girl found an old notice on yellow paper Chris could use after removing the staples. The printer accepted it, and she stamped the printed copy. As Hugh Whalen often says: "You can't make this shit up."

Katie and Chris went next door to rent a car. The rental agency, that also rents boats and toys, said they only had one car, and had just rented to "this guy here", standing beside them. With that, we went back to our boats to enjoy some socializing. Spyglass left today to attempt to rent a car in St. Pierre.

It has been a beautiful day here, with us reading, relaxing, and taking a nice long swim. Its happy hour, so I'll sign off now.

Here are a couple more pics from Dawn:
A few days ago, Bounty, our boat boy in Dominica gave us these beautiful mangoes and a big breadfruit. We brought him his favourite cheese from Guadeloupe and he came back in the morning with these gifts to us. The mangoes will be ripe in about 2 weeks...yes, all at the same time!

Les Saints and Dominica

Juvenile French Angel


Monday finds us back in Dominica, but getting ready for a jump to Martinique in the morning.

We had two pleasant days in the Saintes, during which we got a good hike, some boat chores, and another trip to town for pizza. The hike, which we undertook with Myrl and Gary of Kokopelli, was a gruelling walk up a 1036 foot peak to explore a major lookout tower built to spy the terrible English before they might attack French territory. The pictures show the structure, and the great views.

Here it is...the fort that 'must be conquered'. A nice 45 degree slope all the way from the town to the top in baking heat and no shade.


A view of the main island in Les Saints. We often enjoy anchoring right in front of the town where we can go into town at night for dinner and get wifi.




Ilet Cabrit, a small uninhabited island among Les Saints. You can see Cat Tales to the far left.






The boat chores included hand stitching on the jib. Dawn and I divided that chore between us so we wouldn’t wear our fingers out pushing the needle through the dense fabric. It took us only a couple of hours, but as luck would have it, a great wind came up as we were finishing the job of reinstalling the jib. The heavy clew eyelet gave me a wondrous smack in the side of the face, cutting up the inside of my mouth, but leaving my teeth intact. No worries, it is almost healed now.



Our four hour sail from the Saintes to Dominica on Friday morning was wet and wild, but with no damage or injury. We were met by friends among the yacht services powerboats (formerly referred to as “boat boys”, and now usually referred to as river guides and tour management experts). We also met up with Debby and Jim of the boat Loonsong, whom we had met numerous times back in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. They and another couple took us on another hike up into an agricultural area that was quite interesting.

Jim from "Mirus" after we finally found the stream at the top of the mountain


After our hike, we felt we deserved a little refreshment, and then a little more...




We’re now resting up after a truly wild Beach BBQ party with the local River Guides in their new building on the beach. We actually stayed up until mid-night last night!

Unfortunately this is all I got of the BBQ last night before my battery died. And I don't even know these people. Oopsie...


Tomorrow’s trip will be 50 miles, which could take up to 10 hours if the wind is low or foul. We should also report that we could easily be out of contact for days, as there is little in the way of wifi in Martinique.

Here's an idea of what to do when your Hobie is no longer useful as a sailboat!

Alone Again

The morning after we all enjoyed Grand Anse Beach, we sent Walter and Dana up the hill to see the best botanical garden we’ve found in the Caribbean. They were back in time for lunch, which was followed by a 90 minute sail south to the Jacques Cousteau underwater park for a snorkel. We buzzed the anchorage and continued on another hour or so to Anse a la Barque, where we anchored and enjoyed a great social evening and meal in the cockpit.

The next morning, we got an early start, and were anchored off Basse Terre, at the southwest end of the island by about 0900h. Dawn sat with the fresh anchoring job near the main dock, while Dana, Walter and I motored ashore to look for a rental car for Monday. After a trip to a tourist bureau, a bus ride, and a 20 minute fast march, we returned to the boat victorious. We up-anchored, and continued on for a three-hour series of tacks to the Saintes, where we anchored again to spend a quiet rest of the day off the main town, crowned with a trip to Dawn‘s favourite pizza stand. The next day included hiking to two beaches for swimming, lunch, exercise, and lyming, and an elegant meal in a restaurant on the main street.

A relaxing crossing from Guadeloupe to The Saints:


Scooter rentals have taken over in The Saints. Check out the dog on this one...not his first trip, I would guess!



Does this look like a relaxing way to lounge on the beach?



A short rest after covering every road on the main island in The Saints:



Walter dinghied in for baguettes each morning while we were in The Saints. I love baguettes with cheese; what a delight!


Local race in The Saints:


We had a lovely sail back to Basse Terre the next day, so nice that our guests both napped; waking up as Dawn and I prepared the anchor, and after the boat was rinsed and the mainsail put away. The town was pretty dead, as it was Sunday. We had a relaxing walk along the boulevard, and enjoyed another evening of social exchange in the cockpit. We also had one of Dawn’s “one-pot-wonders” designed around most succulent smuggled beef tenderloin.

The next day, Walter picked up the car, and we piled in for a fast tour of the rainforests and roads on the volcanic west side of Guadeloupe, interspersed with two short hikes, a truly interesting lunch of local food and a couple of bars. We were zonked when we returned, and just as well, as Walter and Dana had to be on the dock by 0445h to drive to their 0740h flight from Pointe-a-Pitre. Dawn and I went back to bed, thinking we had done more in the last 6 days than we normally do in 6 weeks, and that with the company we had the week before, we have been extremely busy.

Walter and Dana rented a car for a day and whisked us off to see the island of Guadeloupe. Walter drove aggressively like a local and kept up with the pace here on the highways. Glad we weren't driving!


Walter and Dana on the left; Laurie on the far right:


Walter and Dana, visitors from Boston:


Laurie and Dawn near falls in Guadeloupe:




We think both sets of company unwound and relaxed, making us realize, that we are used to things so slow that we may not be able to function back on the continent. ;-) Maybe I’ll overhaul an engine or something before I slow down to the normal pace.

We’re now back at The Saints taking care of chores and visiting with friends on Kokopelli.

The Saintes

Hi:

Sorry for no news, nor pics to entertain you the last few days. We are presently in the Saintes. Walter has just returned with the baguettes for breakfast, and we're about to enjoy them with cheese, chutney, and the last of the coffee.

We're enjoying the Saintes. Yesterday was yet another beach day at Baie de Pompiere, and we have been wandering around, and people-watching in this chic paradise. Today, however, we are leaving to return to Basse Terre. We'll rent a car that we had prearranged, and tour Guadeloupe tomorrow. Only trouble is the wind is from the north, and its gonna be a bumpy ride.

Anyway, we are safe, and everything is working fine.

Leaving Antigua Arriving Guadeloupe

Dana and Walter from Boston (of Sailing Vessel Madness) arrived on Tuesday right on time. We picked them up at the dock and headed straight into Customs and Immigration to sign them on as crew, pay our fees and check out of Antigua. After a drink at the Mad Mongoose, we went back to Cat Tales to enjoy dinner and to bed early for our sail to Guadeloupe in the morning. Laurie and Walter raised the anchor on Wednesday morning and were underway by 6:00 am. Dana and I snoozed another hour or so before we came out into the rolling waves to join them. I shared some yogurt and fruit with Dana, but she felt the need to 'get rid of it all' and was willing to wait for lunch to eat again!

After a 6 hour sail and average speed of 7.5 knots over 45 nautical miles, we anchored in Deshaies, Guadeloupe where we had a quick bite to eat and then walked to the beautiful Grand Anse Beach about a half hour walk away. The pictures below are Dana and Walter playing in the surf. After a beer in a beach bar we began the walk back and enjoyed a bath in the ocean at the tail end of Cat Tales. Dana marveled about how much sand she carried back in her bikini bottoms without noticing!



Bring it on!














We met Walter from s/v Madness back in 2009 when we sailed into Bermuda on our way south. Dana came to visit him periodically throughout the island chain so we were able to spend time with her. He kept a blog over the year he was cruising and it's available to you as a link on the left sidebar of our blog. They will be with us only until Tuesday the 22nd, so we'll be on the move!

News about the Somali Pirate attacks

Not much happening here, but for those of you who want some real news, and a break from the business in Japan, visit:
http://www.syaspen.blogspot.com/

These are good friends of ours who took off on a 2 year rally, and are part of the group that included the four murdered US sailors by Somali Pirates. They give a glimpse of the terror they are all going through.

As for Cat Tales, we are doing basic chores after the enjoyable visit by Ron and Judy; and getting ready for a visit from Walter and Dana, who are traveling with us to Guadeloupe and possibly the Saintes.

Laurie

Sights from Antigua

The Maltese Falcon came out yesterday for a stretch. We are thinking that the helicopter is taking photos for a sales ad perhaps?? Count your pennies...



Ron meets new friends in the city of Saint John's at Heritage Quay at the Cruise Ship shopping mall.



These old windmill bases can be found all over the island of Antigua; 120 or so can be found. They were used to grind the sugar cane for the wonderful rum produced on these islands! We hiked a nice flat 2 mile foot path to see this one.



Picnic on the beach.




Beach shot at Five Island Bay. Judy thought it was time to put some pictures of me on the blog since I'm usually the photographer.



Signs around these islands are a little different than at home.






If you look carefully, you can see Monserrat in the background, steaming away!


We are saying goodbye to Ron and Judy later today. They are well rested and have developed some colour. What a great week we've had!

Antigua with company

Hi All. Judy reporting.

We are having a fabulous time and the weather is most definitely cooperating. We’re talkin’ hot hot hot! English Harbour is really something to see with the all the cats and yachts and of course the historical Nelson Boatyard. The local beer, wadadli can be found at all the favourite watering holes like Johnny Coconat’s restaurant. Dawn and I had the best snorkelling in English Harbour where we checked out an old sunken ship (quite eerie actually).

English Harbour, Gallion Beach.


Don't know how Laurie snuck into this photo!


We’ve been to a fish fry set up outside where we met many of Dawn and Laurie’s sailing friends from Nomad, Fido, and Vamoose. Been up island to Nonsuch Bay but the snorkelling was not as great. However the ocean playground was wonderful as we watched the kite-surfers criss-cross around Cat Tales all afternoon.

A beautiful ray seen off the reef at Nonsuch Bay.


We are in Five Island Bay right now where we anchored yesterday. A very pretty bay that we basically had to ourselves; we went for a long walk on a deserted beach where we found many seashells that washed ashore. Plans for today are to sail to the next bay and explore there.