Season's Wrap Up!

 So, last report, April 4th, Cat Tales and Peace & Plenty were in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou.  We received a good weather report and decided, for the first time, to attempt to go down the east, or windward side of Grenada.  We were rather nervous, since Dawn and I had attempted the east side of St. Vincent a few years ago with s/v Free Spirit.  We had found outrageously confused seas as the waves and wind reverberated off the steep island.  Worse, the wind that should have kept us going came and went as it got backed up from the hills, and the current constantly hauled us nearer shore.  Ultimately, we motored through the awful waves and thrashing.

But this time, the trip down Grenada wasn't bad at all.  We chose to stay at least 4 miles away, the waves were manageable, the wind was constant, and it was better than having to motor down the west side.   We pulled around the corner into St. David's harbour after only 4.5 hours. 

The plan allowed us to visit a number of harbours on the south coast, and travel downwind to Prickly Bay.  It was nice to have avoided the upwind slog from St. George's to Prickly; and the visiting was fun too.   We only actually stopped in St. David's and again in Clarke's Court; but got to see the two other boatyards, clean up our boats in the flatter waters, visit with s/v Tiger Lily II and s/v Sittatunga (and others), and try out many of the eating and drinking spots we had heard about over the years.

We love the creativity on these islands!

Laurie and Brian tying and locking dinghies while we go to lunch.

We thought it was just a sign, but it really was an iguana crossing!

The bays themselves are no great shakes:  wind blows through them, waves are rather constant except in a few corners, and the water is tremendously polluted and cloudy.  Some of the water problem is simply because of mangroves that line almost every bank, and the freshwater streams that come in from every cleft; but not completely.  These streams run far inland, and are polluted by sewage and, in the case of Clarke's Court Bay, by the industrial runoff of the island's largest rum distillery.  Not a place for swimming, although I did get in and give the boat's bottom a final scrape and wash in St. David's.

Laurie working on the washing and waxing of Cat Tales while out in the bay.  We leave wax on for the summer season and then wash is off with soap and water on our return.

Even more than Tyrell Bay, the Clarke's Court area is the last stop for a large population of very crusty old sailors, from Canada, US, Britain, and parts of the EU.  Mostly male and alone, they spend their days at the rum shops or enjoying the community gatherings.  They head back to their boats at night in dinghies that should have or actually were thrown away, and dare to sneak through the speeding local pirogues in the dark without lights.  Their boats all seem to be old and in need of work, much like their dinghies, and we imagine their banter at the rum shops might be about how they intend to find a solution to a major problem on board ...maybe next year.  We took a dinghy ride around to see some of these boats.  Most appear to show scars from the 2004 hurricane, with some just plain neglected but lived in.  There are retired couples betwixt and between; keeping the community together with jam sessions, pot lucks, beach barbecues, trivia games and the absolutely necessary weekly domino games. 

I think you can close the curtains on this boat!

We organized at least three wonderful lunches ashore, some with other boats, before we made the last jump to Prickly Bay.  Dawn and I had organized a full week ashore, while Lorna and Brian did a great job of getting the boat ready on the water, and pulled out only 2 nights before joining us on the same flight home on the 20th of April.  Of course, we got together for a night at the craft brewery, two meals at the new Prickly Bay restaurant, and one meal at the Greek restaurant at the University.  Eating out is a pleasure of ours on ALL the islands!

We are now back in Canada enjoying the coolish spring weather and all the fun stuff, like a car, washer/dryer, hot running water and a flush toilet!!!

Since we never did find our leak, we're hoping the tarp has covered it!

One more sexy catamaran!  This one is called Helicat Red.  Yup, that's a helicopter landing pad on the back end!

TECHNICAL

Biggest news is that I was introduced to a new tool, an impact driver.  It is like a screw driver except that it turns when you hit it with a hammer.  Two different boaters came to me in the yard to ask that I try it after hearing me tapping at a large screw on my traveler every few hours, attempting to drive in the penetrating oil.  They knew I was in trouble, and indeed, it might have been a lifetime of tapping without the tool.  As it was, the little hammer that came with the boat actually broke from my efforts before I tried the driver.  I promptly ran down to Ace Hardware and bought my own, I was so impressed.

The usual maintenance and decommissioning work was done, but we also began in earnest our efforts to stop up the leak that is delivering water to the port hull at the forward bulkhead.  We used a combination of butyl tape and 3M 4000UV on the port pulpit, toerail and one stantion, all the toggles of the windshield, and all the snaps of the window sunscreens.  We also wrapped the salon in tarp to attempt to minimize the water that might cause mould while in storage.  More rebedding will occur in the fall.

Over our 5 months of sailing, we were hit by other boats numerous times, and these hits have to be addressed.  One was just a propeller cut of the anchor bridle, and I spliced the ropes.  The Hobie Cat 16 hit to the stern was repaired in the Saintes, but the colour match was made with spray paint.  Since another hit, one causing leaking at the swim ladder, is going to require some gelcoat, I'll redo that one as well next season.  A starboard bow scrape also needs gelcoat.

Other pending plans include replacing all the emergency u-bolts at the waterline, regluing bilge switches that let go, replacing dodgy-looking hose clamps, non-skid on the swim steps, reloading the bearings in the traveler car, and other things.  Who would have thought that 7 days in a boatyard would make such a small dent?

The Grenadines

While we were arranging what to put in this weblog, Lorna published a fantastic blog for Peace and Plenty.  You ought to take a look at it, as they have been along with us these last few weeks.  Click on the link on the sidebar after you are finished here.

We're having a slow day at anchor in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou.  The wind is blowing 14-18 knots, the sea has a gentle swell, and the cabin is around 29 C.  Dawn is going in with Lorna and Brian to play dominoes, and I will continue with my boat chores: making water, unsticking bolts and screws, touching up gelcoat areas, transferring fuels, finalizing the work list for the boatyard.

We left Ste. Anne, Martinique on the 13rd of March, with Peace and Plenty just behind us, and had a lovely sail over to Rodney Bay; just a bit of water on the deck.  There were large enough waves, but they were with rounded edges in the 15 knots of wind. No fish, however.

Rodney Bay was a whirlwind of activity, with us staying only 8 days until the next weather window allowed us to sail to Bequia.  Still, we hit the highlights: a lunch, a supper, and a happy hour with John Fallon, a bit of hiking, buying boat parts, celebrating Lorna's birthday with a big party at a bar on the marina boardwalk.  Brian and I also hiked to Vigie Light one day and left Lorna and Dawn to shop all day with no time limits and no bored men waiting by each store door.

In Rodney Bay, Johnny spends most of his day paddling around selling woven straw hats and whatever he can sell.  Laurie is often seen taking Johnny back to the shore in rough weather.

One of many birthday celebrations for Lorna.  This one was with old friends in Rodney Bay on the Boardwalk.  Lorna and Dawn are at the far end of the table on the left.  Across from them is Laurie and John Fallon.

 

The Vigie hike was a "do-over" from the previous year, as I intended to write up a story for a magazine on it, but had a poor camera.  Vigie Light is on top of a minor 320' hill at the mouth of Castries harbour.  The light guides ships, but a radio operator constantly monitors and guides marine traffic into and out of the tiny bay opening to coordinate the boats with the airport.  The end of the runway is at the edge of the bay, and the smallest sailboat mast could be clipped by an airplane.  The hill is well littered with historic buildings and gun placements, dilapidated and repurposed barracks, and an archive.  The archive itself has good information on the hill and the structures, as well as an original of the military report of the WWII submarine attack  (U-161) that sank two boats at the dock and killed a couple of dozen people.  One of those boats was Canada's Lady Nelson: built by CN in England in 1928 for passengers and mail between Canada, England, Guyana, and the Caribbean.  After it was refloated, it was taken to Alabama to be fixed, and was converted to a hospital ship and made 30 crossings, carrying 25 000 wounded to Halifax.  The approach to Vigie also includes a large graveyard, where some of the crew of the two ships are buried.

Hilariously, the Archives was closed this time.  Maybe, with some internet work, I can grind out the article during the summer anyway.  Otherwise, I will make the hike again next fall.

Entrance to Castries Harbour from Vigie Lighthouse

Married Quarters at Vigie Light

Other embassies, Vigie Light

Upper Meadow's Battery

We arrived in Bequia on the evening of Tuesday, March 21, after 14 hours of very nice sailing.  Peace and Plenty arrived an hour ahead of us, as the last bit of sailing had the wind close hauled, and his boat demonstrated superiority at that angle.  Bequia, too, we did in a rush; getting quickly into the favourite restaurants and doing a few walks to stay healthy. 

Cute signage along Lower Bay Beach in Bequia!

 Seven days later, we had another fantastic sail, and anchored for two nights at Frigate Rock, Union Island.  We were joined there by an acquaintance, Mark of Toronto, who was solo-sailing a Catalina 38 "Current Affairs", through the region before heading back to Canada.  With Mark, we hiked up a steep trail to the top of the 800+' "Big Hill" which towers over the little village of Ashton.  We also sailed over to Petit Martinique, and anchored almost a half mile from shore in 12 feet of sand.  It has to be one of the most beautiful anchorages in the world, but the currents go so fast under the boat -east-then-west- that jumping overboard is hazardous.

We are anchored to the right side of Frigate Rock pictured here.  You can also see the beginnings of a marina intended for this space.  Unfortunately, we see too many failed projects on these islands.  Let's hope it's a good spot for fish to breed.

After the hike up the mountain, we stopped by a little rum shop for a few cool ones.  Lorna and Brian are on the left, with Mark from s/v Current Affair.  Beside Mark is our new friend of the day, Eddie!

Anchored between  Petit St. Vincent and Petit Martinique, we found a lovely patch of sand at a perfect depth to drop the hook.  The water colour is so beautiful and clear, you can see your anchor from the deck!  We hiked around the entire Petit Martinique and then had a fabulous lunch at Melody's on the beach.

Tyrell Bay is being rushed as well, with a quick walk to Paradise Beach for the view and a few cold beer with Curtis at "Off da Hook", and an early supper at Lucky's Bar last night.  Tomorrow, we hope to sail down to Grenada.  We are watching the weather, and hoping to sail down the east side if the wind and weather are conducive.  This will allow us to gunkhole along the south shore of Grenada, going downwind between the bays.  If not, we will stay on the lee side and anchor tomorrow in St. Georges.

TECHNICAL

Our Amiot main traveler is spitting out plastic, meaning the high density plastic bearings in it are shot.  I am attempting to source new bearings while I use penetrating oil and tapping to release all the fittings to allow access.

We have been attempting to end a leak that is puddling fresh water in the port hull.  I have rebedded over 20 fittings and am waiting for another rain to see if I got it.  In the meantime, a puddle showed up after a very minor rain to keep us confused.  Then we left the boat for a day with vinegar trapped in the bathroom drains to remove soap scum.  Well, when we smelled vinegar in the bilge, we knew that some of the water is related to the drains.  I was able to tighten the shower drain to stop that, and now we wait.  Interestingly, while I was filling the sink drain with vinegar, a poor little 30 mm crab jumped up and into the sink.  I immediately flung the little guy into the ocean, hoping he survives.  Imagine being an aquatic creature and immersed in vinegar - all your sensory organs and the rest.  I cry when I get some in a tiny cut!