Friday, December 6, 2013

Grenada At Last!




It is Friday, after a very busy week.  We are in Grenada, anchored in Prickly Bay just outside of the Tiki Bar.  Fair free internet and good music - although there are warnings of a steel pan band playing tonight!  The famous (to us Caribbean cruisers) Chris Doyle just rounded our stern with his Trinidad-built catamaran "ti Kanot".  (He writes most of the cruising guides for the Caribbean)
Prickly Bay Marina - where we're picking up decent wifi this morning!

View from the boat - note the whale bone trim on the apartment building.

View from behind our boat

Cat Tales - port side sitting in Prickly Bay
 Now, let's back up and talk about last week...
We note that in the previous weblog we made a mistake and an omission.  We toured the Angostura factory on Friday, then we actually left the boat Saturday afternoon for a hike in the National Forest near Maqueripe Bay.  The hike, with 5 others, went along a mountain path up and down ridges, across small streams, and through massive stands of bamboo.  The stands of bamboo were breathtaking:  bridging the paths like cathedral ceilings.  The highlight, however, was the sightings of red howler monkeys.  I recommend a quick scan of this document if you are interested:  http://pin.primate.wisc.edu/factsheets/entry/red_howler

Before and after the sightings, we got to hear their vocalizations.  They were loud, and deeply guttural; reminding us of horror films.  

Dawn standing on the path through the bamboo

Laurie & Susie looking for the howler monkey they just heard.  They caught a good look at him, but he was gone before I could get a photo of him.

Many people, I am told, come here to get married because of the bamboo "canopy".

At the end of the hike a refreshing swim cooled us down before catching the bus back to the boatyard.

Laurie looking after the clothes.
 
Anyway, with that addition and correction out of the way, how did we get here?

Monday's mid-afternoon splash was the most stress-free we've ever had, with the hydraulic trailer delivering us to the crane, the crane lifting Cat Tales, me running around with bottom paint touching up the bottom of the keels, and finally being gently dropping into the water.  We didn't rush, or feel pressured as we checked for leaks and dry bilge, nor as we started the two engines and ensured that water was properly spitting out of the mufflers.  
Laurie chatting with our good friend Blugh just before getting the boat on the trailer.

Laurie and the boys getting things lined up under Cat Tales for an event-free splash

Every year, Peake's in Trinidad do a fabulous job splashing us!  No worries, mon!
 We motored out with wild waving, and, when we could not find a mooring in the harbour, went directly to the Customs dock.  There, we got permission to go to Monos Island to check our systems, and, in a very organized fashion, loaded provisions from the stores alongside the docks.  The 50 minute trip to Monos was uneventful, and we went through all our checks and reassemblies without trouble.  The exception (isn't there always an exception?) was the outboard engine for the dinghy.  When it would not start Tuesday morning, I realized it had some things to teach me.  I got out the manual and another book, reviewed my bits of education, made a list to check, and then sat in the hot sun for an hour and a half.  I had real difficulty with sweat near the end, and had to call up to Dawn for a sweat band and a towel to keep focused on the work.  Dropping parts in the drink would have been the total failure.  After focusing on filters, carburetor, and spark plugs; and not really being sure even if it was only a single cause, she started, and has been reasonably easy to start since.   I have a sneaking suspicion that old gas is a part of the equation, but the best way of getting rid of that is to burn it!   If an outboard turns over, the things to check are simply air, gas, and spark, after all.

After lunch, we motored back to Chaguaramas, checked out of Customs and Immigration for Trinidad, got a little rum from Duty Free, and motored to Scotland Bay.

We left Scotland Bay the next morning at 5:30 a.m., and motored NNE for 3 hours, then motor sailed with one engine for 2 more hours.  This took us to the east of the Poinsettia oil platform and well east of our rhumb line.  From there, we shut off the remaining engine, readjusted the sails, and on a course of NNW, had a lovely 7.5 hour sail to the mouth of Prickly Bay.  A half hour later (13 hrs in all), we were at anchor where we are now.  A long day, but it is behind us.  We had a very easy supper with wine, enjoying the flat calm, and slept very safely and soundly.

I want to add that the Chaguaramas community of sailors is really being whipped up into a state of fear by a pirate attack that occurred ten miles from the opening of the Boca near Scotland Bay, and five miles from shore, that happened only weeks ago.  The boats involved were heading west and were told not to get so close to land, ignored the advice and one paid the price.  We've spoken to seasoned sailors who said that this bit of real estate deserved at least 20 miles of clearance 15 years ago, and now, with a real increase in lawlessness, the way west should include leaving from Grenada and giving it a minimum of 50 miles for the whole Venezuelan coast and out-islands.   The trip north to Grenada is not generally as risky as being close to the Venezuelan coast.  We are happy to have this stuff behind us, as it was beginning to really affect us.  If you are interested in the incident, the captain provides his version of events here:  http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Venezuela/venezuela-paria-peninsula-yacht-boarded-attacked-and-robbed-by-pirates-november-2013

We took things slowly and easily yesterday, clearing into the country using the Customs and Immigration office so conveniently located within 200 metres from our boat, cleaned off some of the salt, and put things to right with sails and the like.  Last night, with our celebratory callaloo pizza at de Big Fish, we were joined by Arleen and Denis of s/v Tiger Lily II and Catherine and Peter of s/v Charlotte D.  We also met a new couple, Katheryn and John from Toronto.

Looking out the escape hatch window at the water in Trinidad - this water is very brackish because of the rainwater and related algae growth from the Oronoko River.

Looking out the same window in Grenada...notice the lovely turquoise.  (I couldn't get this photo turned...sorry)
Today is another slow day, although I can always find something that needs attention aboard.  Maybe a bilge float switch...

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Rum Tour and Pan Drums!



Lock up your batteries around Trinidad!
 It is Sunday, our eleventh day in the boatyard in Trinidad.  A few nights ago, Dawn and I realized that our total nights spent sleeping in this yard is approaching 150 since 2005.  Considering how much we do and pay to be in here, it must be one of our special places.  Not really, but it grows on you, and still seems in the long run better than ten days and nights each season on the couch at home.

Cat Tales is in great shape, and we are actually running out of chores.  The only thing that seems to be a little amiss, is that we have again discovered that the sail track end cap, the one at the top of the mast, is missing.  This means two things:  our sail is too long, and we keep knocking it off when we raise all of the mainsail; and we have to be extra careful this season to not get the top sail car stuck at the bare end of the sail track.  I guess it also means more wear on the halyard, as it will be drug over a rather sharp edge of the sail track.

We are doing chores now that normally are done at anchor.  Certainly, by the time we are launched on Monday afternoon, we will have nothing to do but clean out bins and shelves.

Thursday night, we joined  Blugh, a yardworker, and his wife Elka for a drive into the hills where they live for a bar roti and beers.  It was good fun, even though we don't have much in common but the boatyard.  Blugh moonlights as a taxi-driver, and has been picking us up and dropping us off at the airport the last 5 years.  I think he makes good money at that.  We had gone to a local mall that afternoon and bought his 5-year old son a book for Christmas, and gave it to them after the roti.  I just spoke to Blugh about his son a few minutes ago.  He said Kyle was awake when he left, and asked if he could open the present in its Christmas wrapping.  Blugh, like many men the world over, told him to ask his mother rather than discuss it further. 

Yesterday, we joined a small group for a tour of a rural steel pan manufacturer and the Angostura Bitters and Rum factory.  These musical instruments, made out of steel drums, didn't really interest us, but we did learn a lot in spite of it.  The bitters and rum distillery was great, however.  Indeed, the tour was way too quick for my tastes, with a lot of historical and technical plaques and displays that we did not have time to digest; and the rum tasting itself could have been a lot longer.  Still, it was a jolly ride back to the boatyard.

Tony, the steel pan maker showing us the underside of a drum.  Jesse James, our tour guide is in the blue shirt.  Jesse organizes tours for the boaters and has been famous for his service.  And yes, that's his real name!
Rum dee dum dum...almost enough!


Merry Christmas with a tree made of miniature bitters bottles.

A beautiful rum bottle chandelier at the Angostura Rum and Bitter factory!  This is a great decorating tip for our Grand Lake friend Leo who is building this season!

Never enough time at the end of the tour for enough sampling!




Saturday, November 23, 2013

Reviewing summer 2013 and looking forward to winter 2013-14




We are now back in Trinidad, and are feeling we let our readers down over the last six months by not posting during the summer.  Sooooo, let's catch up.

We reported on our visit with Maurice and Sue in Ontario on the way back home, and we talked a little about recommissioning the cottage for the season.

We took two other trips as well, both of duration only 6 days, and both by car.  The first was a trip to our smallest province, Prince Edward Island.   Eight hours of driving took us to a Bill and Lynn Cabel's cottage, where we spent two days with them and Tina and Scott Kennah. It was great to spend a significant piece of time with these four after many years of "catch as catch can".   From there, we travelled to the Souris Ferry Terminal to meet two Caribbean sailors - Paula and Brian of s/v Magique.   Magique has been in the Caribbean since 2007; soon after a harrowing rescue and recovery just north of Bermuda, after the rudder split and fell off the shaft, engine mounts failed, and the boat had a tussle with a LNG supertanker.     At the ferry terminal, we loaded their gear and bicycles onto our car and drove onto a large, rather luxurious ferry for a 5-hour crossing to the Magdaleines, where we stayed in a chalet and bicycled around.  The Magdaleine Islands are a low-profile set of islands connected by sand dunes that are north of Prince Edward Islands and are part of Quebec.  Although all are French-speaking, they know that since the collapse of the cod fishery their well-being relies on tourism - so all are happy to see us no matter how little of the language we speak.  The culture was unique, as was the arts - no "Made in Indonesia" stickers here.  The only art we purchased were some ceramic tiles and some blown glass pieces.   It was also great to spend time with Paula and Brian.  As you know, people who sail always seem to find something to discuss.  Of course, the wine and goodies the French provide is always fun!

Lynn, Dawn, Tina, Scott, Laurie & Bill at the Cabel's cottage in PEI

Paula and Dawn biking the Magdaline Islands




The second trip was in September.  We drove to Cape Breton, again 8 hours away, and visited Fortress Louisburg, a French fortress community that was overrun by the English twice in the 18th century - each time requiring a major force and a 6-week siege.  One-fifth of the Fortress has been reconstructed using Canadian federal funding to represent the fortress as it was in 1744, just before the first siege.  With staff in appropriate costume available to explain the artifacts and the history, it was quite interesting.   The second day of our trip had us well underground in a coal-mining museum; bent over in a 4-foot space having the experience explained to us by a short 70-year old miner.  (Dawn was one of the few who could stand up at various points.)
Laurie helping the boys pull in the big one!

Laurie at the gate of the Fortress Louisbourg in Cape Breton
From there, we visited Caribbean sailors Catherine and Peter from s/v "Charlotte D"; a teal blue/turquoise (Dawn says - I would have said green), high-sided ketch.  They can be found anywhere in the leewards or windwards, as the two of them don't seem to mind passages of 2-3 days.  Their summer home is absolutely rudimentary, along the shores of the Bras d'Or Lake, encompassing an ancient railroad caboose, a little glassed in sunporch, a partly reconstructed tiny stationhouse, a very tiny antique travel trailer that might not travel, and a woodworking shop with a tiny greenhouse attached. 

Although Peter is 68, and Catherine is just a little younger, these two don't do anything easily.  As there is no septic tank nor wastewater services, the caboose has a composting toilet - the "proceeds" of which goes into their other giant compost bins to expand their raised-bed gardens.  They travel over an hour to get to a laundromat.  Peter is expanding the tiny stationhouse with hemlock boards cut from a tree he and his lumberman picked out of the forest.   Presently, he does other chores as he waits for the wood to dry enough to be squared up in his workshop.  Catherine wanted to knit a sweater last year, so she started by picking out a sheep and shearing it, before dying, combing, spinning, and whatever else was required.   The interesting thing is these people have the resources to live any way they wish - this is their preferred lifestyle.  Peter was a professor of physiology, and Catherine was a specialist of some sort in the health care business.

Peter & Laurie taking a rest

Dawn & Catherine on the hike in Cape Breton
We stayed inside the travel trailer for the two nights of the visit quite cozily.  Catherine and Peter actually sleep in the rafters of the porch, where there is 4 feet of headroom at the peak; but only after climbing up a ladder made by slats between the exposed wall studs.   Lots to talk about, and an excellent visit. 


A highlight was a trip around the Bras d'Or Lake to Baddeck, where we toured the Alexander Graham Bell museum.  It is easy to forget that Bell had many inventions and provided other improvements to technology after he got our telephones working.  One large hanger at the museum pays tribute to the work done on the Bell estate to understand hydrofoils and their potential worth to the armed forces and others.  This was significant to us as, two days before, we had accidentally stumbled on the match races of the America's Cup on a television station.  Oracle Team USA beat Fly Emirates Team New Zealand after around 20 races on the inner harbour of San Francisco, on 72 foot catamarans with fixed wing mains, furling jibs and Code Zeros, and foiled daggers.  Race speeds on the 10 mile course varied between ~20 and ~45 knots.  By the end of the series, both teams had learned how to keep the boats up on the hydraulic actuated foiled daggers for more than 70% of each race.  Bell would have loved it!

We also went on a steep hike to a beautiful waterfall behind Baddeck.  Peter wore a 30 pound back pack, just to get used to the weight.  These two intend to hike 60 miles of the Appalachian Trail in six days; on their way south to return to the boat.  Tough, appreciative people, working down the adventurous side of their "bucket list".

From there, we took up an invitation to visit another pair of Caribbean sailors, Michele and Al from Dartmouth, of the s/v Tarantella, a Hunter 44.  Their lifestyle is just short of being completely opposite of Catherine and Peter:  Their house is in a stylish, middle-class neighbourhood, and contains five bedrooms and three baths.  They have two large dining rooms and our stay was pretty much in luxury.   Their idea of a good time seems to be to acquire something at a fantastic bargain, and they are forever looking for such deals.  They took us out on Halifax Harbour in a 32 foot trawler-style power boat that Al had acquired for next to nothing in amazing but honest circumstances.  


Michele & Al on their trawler on the water along Halifax
The weather in New Brunswick over the summer, has set records for wetness, and our little cottage just never had a beach, as Grand Lake stayed well over a metre over the norm.  We launched our Hobie 21, but only sailed her a few times.   The beach only reappeared in mid-September.  Our lot is predominately driveway and blueberries, but I often have to cut the grass on the large driveway, but not this year.  The dampness allowed moss to crowd out the grass.  I built a nice wood shed, and harvested trees on our little lot to fill it for firewood for future heat.

Tidy little woodshed.  The ramp flips up to become the door!  It also holds our bicycles!

Beautiful fall day on Grand Lake!
Of course we enjoyed time with all our friends and family members who we miss all winter.  There were parties, pig roasts, dinners, and other get-togethers.  We'll highlight only one.  The day after Halloween, we got together with a fairly big crowd for a "Pastafarian" party.  It is complicated for those not aware, but the best way to understand the whole experience is to go to Wikipedia and look up the "Church of The Flying Spaghetti Monster" (FSM).  At any rate, people showed up either dressed as a pirate (the honorary dress of a disciple of the FSM, or with a colander on your head (to honour the makeup of the deity); and we eat various pasta dishes.  People in costume act differently, and seem to have more fun than others.

The Pastifarian Party is about to begin!

Pirates everywhere
 
Dawn and pirate Hugh guarding the pasta dishes

Scoundrel Doug and Nasty Laurie downing rum...

Lorraine showing off the boat she sailed over on
 
Judy, Lorraine & Sea -- wenches for sure
We have been on the boat for just a few days, and have been able to put things back together with very few setbacks.  Hopefully things will continue like this, and we'll be splashed without incident a week from Monday.

Our plans are to sail northerly along the Caribbean island chain and to haul out way up north in Virgin Gorda, so it should be a more interesting season for us.
 
Travel plans for winter 2013 & 14.  All plans written in sand at low tide.
Looking forward to feeling the water under our keel come Monday, Dec. 2nd!

Friday, May 17, 2013

The Season's Post-mortem



We've been back in Canada for a bit now, and are actively attacking chores around our cottage.   It is remarkable how much easier it seems to be to get a house or cottage ready for the season in comparison to a boat.  It may be that we are a little too fussy with a boat - but then, we suffer breakdowns a little harder while at sea off foreign coasts.

Sticking with the chores here for a bit, the last two days have allowed us to turn on the water, the television, and the internet; clean up the fallen debris, uncover planters and such, re-install the hot tub, consolidate the tax information for our tax guy, and deal with all the mail.  As well, we have renewed acquaintances with friends and family - indeed, we are having a big pizza party here tonight.

A common problem with being away for six months is that people do not realize how much we miss, and we flounder for a while without knowing who is or was pregnant, who is or was ill, who went to jail, and who's parent may have died, to cite some interesting examples.  The political forum is always full of scandals that we know nothing about.   Still, it will not take long to catch up.

As for the last season, let's deal with it in the various categories. 

We traveled from Trinidad to Dominica, with considerable time spent in Martinique.   The sailing was all totally without real scary times, and much of the sailing could be categorized as ideal.  The winds were probably averaging a few knots higher than normal seasons, but without the high peaks.  It was not a season for wine on the foredecks, as the evenings were almost always with winds over 15 knots.

We spent lots of time with longer-time friends like those on Silk Pajamas and Free Spirit, and just had fleeting/too short moments with Easy Listening, Tarantella, Nahanni River, Breezing Up to name a few.  It seemed we were always just missing them as we all bounced from bay to bay.  Dawn's sister Lorna and her husband Brian had a great first season with their 38 footer Peace and Plenty.  We spent some time with them, and assisted in the entertainment of sister Valerie and her husband Rick when all were assembled in Rodney Bay for Christmas.  Still, we let them have the majority of the season without us, with the results that they made many friends and had their own unique adventures.  Their weblog attests to this.  You can click on their link on our side-panel to the left.

We only had one set of guests this year, but Ron and Judy arrived during the only real significant piece of settled weather; making us able to ensure they got to sail through the Grenadines as well as experience most aspects of the cruising life.  For sure, they were there for the most successful bit of fishing, with us getting numerous strikes and landing two lovely black-finned tuna.

The weather net that is run by Denis (with assistance from Arlene) of Tiger Lilly II is still providing us with lots of information and fun; and we probably only missed about 5 morning all season.  We did not spend as much time with Tiger Lilly as last year, but got to attend Denis' 75th birthday in Grenada, which was a great highlight.

We did a lot more hiking this year, including some more challenging trails.  Besides getting up into the Syndicate Forest of Dominica, we also climbed to the Piton Creve Coeur near Ste Anne Martinique, Pointe Du Cap in northern St. Lucia, Peggy's Rock in Bequia, Big Hill on Union Island, Chapeau Carre on Carriacou, and Laurie climbed Mount Qua Qua in Grenada while Dawn was nursing a foot injury.  Add two Grenada hashes (community hike/races with the "Hash House Harriers"), and it was a strenuous season, with some exciting views.

Cat Tales had the most trouble-free season in our history.  We bought a new jib, and had a new bimini and windshield installed; and were very happy with both.  Problems with the starboard engine shooting all her oil out the dipstick disappeared mid-season last year, mixing elbows were renewed or cleaned, checks of cables and hoses are more frequent, and we are running both engines at higher rpms to hopefully fend off carbon-related problems.

All in all, we enjoyed ourselves, our boat, and our friends in the Caribbean, and still cannot see the end of this part of our short time on earth.

Here is a sample of the work done by Laurie on Cat Tales for haulout!
 We stopped on the way home to visit with Sue and Maurice Black, in Mississauga, Ontario, and formerly of the boat "Strider".  They entertained us, showed us some of Ontario's best scenery including the northern views of the Niagara Escarpment, and allowed us to enjoy their friends and family.  It amazes us how much sailors have in common and easily become close friends.


Laurie and Maurice in Maurice & Sue's home in Mississauga.
We got our cat fix with Bonnie and Clyde, Maurice and Sue's cats!


Look who owns this place...is this Bonnie or Clyde?
 
We hope everyone has an excellent summer, and our little audience here finds other pursuits.  By the way, we intend to investigate a rather different itinerary for next year - possibly spending more time in the north, visiting islands we have missed in the past, and even storing the boat in a more northerly locale.  We'll try to keep you posted.
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Sunday, May 5, 2013

Finishing touches for Cat Tales in Trinidad

We were hauled out of the water on Monday without difficulty.  We are now on day 7 and will fly on Wednesday to Toronto and then on to Fredericton on May 12th.  The boat has been tarped, her bottom painted, she has been washed and waxed (wax left on for the next 6 months) and a hundred other jobs complete.  Both Laurie and I have a long list of chores and we're checking them off one at a time.

Tomorrow morning, I will take all the completed paperwork to the office at Peake's and have them stamp them all and we'll take the long walk in 34 degree heat to the customs and immigration office.  Leaving the boat in Trinidad for 6 months requires lots of paperwork with all the i's dotted and the t's crossed.

Here are a few pictures of the last few days!

Waiting for the boys...ready, set, GO!

A diver places the straps at the bulk-heads where the boat is strongest.  These guys at Peake's work like a well tuned machine!

Bottom paint - done - CHECK!


The birthday boy working on the toilet in the heat!  Happy Birthday Laurie!  The smile is totally put on!

At the time of posting, he still wasn't able to get the part to fit properly.  The air was blue in the 'head' for a long, long time!
 
You know it's a big fish when they use a fork-lift!  This type of grouper was at The Wheelhouse Pub where we enjoyed dinner last night.  We had their famous 'Bake and Shark', not this thing!


Check out the size difference between Freya on the left and Cat Tales on the right!


Hey, pelican...move over!