Hello from Cat Tales in sweet Bequia

 We had continued to enjoy Carriacou after the last blog, but spent most of it in Cassada Bay as Tyrell was uncomfortable with the wind and waves from the north-west.  The Cassada anchorage – for us - was a long distance from shore, so we did not get much in the way of hiking in.  We hope to do this on our way back in April.  One good thing that did happen was that S/V Cloud Street, the Super Maramu Amel with Joanna and Bill on board, came around and anchored beside us.  We had a couple of chats over drinks and a fantastic meal at the Cassada Bay resort. Other than that, our time was spent swimming and doing boat maintenance.  One snorkelling episode showed that the coral reefs were rather dead, but that they were patrolled by a school of 10 or so beautiful yellow-tail snappers; all sized about 14 inches, and rather curious about us.

Cassada Bay Resort from our quiet, peaceful anchorage 

 

We finally went back to Tyrell, cleared out of Immigration, restocked the boat, and got ready to sail.  Steve and Maria had arrived in the bay on the 11^th, already checked out of the country; so we left with them on the 13^th at 0600h, hoping that there would be some east in the wind later in the day.  Not willing to chance it, we motor-sailed east between Canouan and Union, and carried on east until we had cleared World’s End Reef.  Now, there was enough of an angle to allow Cat Tales to spread her wings.  We had one reef in the main and a reduced jib as we passed to the east of Canouan and headed for Petite Canouan on a straight line for the west tip of Bequia.  However, a long, wet squall hit us at Petite Canouan and scared the bejeezus out of us.  I had delayed putting in another reef, and soon regretted it as the rain was driven at the boat by a steady 27 knot wind at a broad-reaching angle.  The jib did go away, and I put the boom over as far as I could, and thought we’d be alright.  The boat played around at 8.5 knots at one point, and I stuck my head above the bimini to find the reef of the main was ripped for about a yard.  As it was stable, and doing anything at this point was dangerous, we ‘sat it out’.  Another problem in the storm was the bimini.  It had obviously lost its waterproofing.  I spent 4 hours in the rain.  We arrived without further incident, albeit an hour behind Steve and Maria who motored all the way and could easily furl both main and jib upon their 38’ Island Packet.  My scheme to head eastward was all for not since the angle of the wind in the squall was exactly what we were looking for in the first place.  Laurie won’t be bragging about this move!

New waterproofing desperately needed here! 

…and this is the start of our mainsail saga, which is far from over. 

Some lures don’t like 8.5 knots of speed.

 

A lot of our time since has been involved in taking down the sail, getting it into a repair shop, discussing the repair, and getting the sail back to the boat and on the batten cars.  The sailmaker says the sail should: “get its affairs in order”, and definitely do not use it in the high winds like we’re getting this week.  So, we are also involved in the shopping for a new sail.  It looks like we’ll have to wait for a very special ‘weather window’ to move the boat to the next island so we don’t rip the poor thing asunder.

 

While we’ve been here, we have been spending time with Garry and Linda Graham, formerly of s/v July Indian, who used to hang out here with us a decade ago.  They’ve abandoned Ontario for 6 months, renting different Bequia apartments instead.  Besides the gabbing and visiting old haunts, the six of us did the obligatory hike to Ma Peggy Rock, at the peak of Bequia’s southern wall.  It is quite a hike, an excellent view, and a great mobile discussion.  Lots of enjoyment.  

Hike to Peggy’s rock.  Nice to see we’re still smiling!

The view from Peggy’s Rock is amazing.  Cat Tales is down there somewhere!

Steve & Maria (s/v Aspen), Garry & Linda (formally of s/v July Indian) and Dawn & Laurie (s/v Cat Tales)

After every hike, we celebrate with a visit to a restaurant.

 

Yesterday, we got together with two other friends:  Fred aboard Dakota Dream, a catamaran slightly larger than us, and Skip aboard Peacekeeper, another 38’ Island Packet.  Both guys, without their wives, sailed from the north to be in Bequia with us.  Fred had left the USVI on Wednesday morning, arriving here at 02:30 hrs on Saturday, while Skip left Antigua, also Wednesday morning, but used the improved angle on the wind to arrive at 01:30 Friday morning.  Two intrepid soloists. Fred had a rough crossing, which, complete with an attempted effort at making chili, resulted in a forced fast.  His description of his malady made us all ready to avoid any chili in the near future!  Yesterday, we watched as he ordered breakfast and lunch and ate two hearty meals at one sitting at the Sailor’s Café, making up for days without nourishment.

 

We’re making plans for the holidays here, with the centre being a sailors’ pot luck Christmas Day afternoon at the Fig Tree Restaurant.  They are closed for the day and always welcome sailors to enjoy their space and BBQ for this event.

Dawn thinks it might be time to decorate.

 

 

TECHNICAL:

 

The stress of the mainsail damage is subsiding for us, and the repaired sail is back on the boom.  We had the bottom panel below the first reef cut right off, so it was easier to manhandle.  Manhandle is right, as we fight to get it off the rig in high winds, get it rolled, onto Blessings (a favoured water taxi with very helpful Dee Dee at the helm, get it up on the dock, and shoulder it to and from the sailmaker.  Steve was excellent help.  Waterproofing the bimini will wait for the winds to abate, and may have to be done up-island. 

 

I have continued my work with the Lewmar low-profile hatches, removing latches and levers, soaking them in vinegar, and sanding off the crust and corrosion.  I have two hatches to go, but need to find a safe time to tackle them – That will come.

 

We took out our dinghy anchor, and found it a rusty mess that left debris everywhere.  I knocked off what came easy, and gave it a coat of Ospho.  The problem is manageable, but I may start shopping for a stainless anchor and chain. The anchor, when thrown out the stern of the dinghy, stops the dinghy from being destroyed under docks.

 

Other chores are small ones, and we seem to be able to have a breather and some fun.  One long-term project is the main wiring.  I am attempting to teach myself to be a boat electrician, able to use automatic battery combining technology, positive and negative buses, and appropriate fusing of the heavier circuits involving charging and starting.  The actual renovation will require access to all the equipment – much of it not yet found on Caribbean shelves.  I also have had to increase my battery bank to ensure the batteries are not totally dead in the morning, with their juice spent on the refrigerator freezer.  Serendipitously, Steve had a new battery he needed to purchase to get from the boatyard to the marina – so I bought it, and that stress has ebbed as well.

 

So, were do I get a mainsail, and how big should I get?  We would like to avoid a full size mainsail, but if we sell the boat in the next 10 years, a new owner might not appreciate a shortened sail.  Sailing the Caribbean is always very windy and we don’t know many people who use the bottom portion of the main, opting to reef at the first or second reef point.  Someone taking the boat away from the Caribbean may want ALL the sail.  So, I think we have a decision made, now to find one and have it shipped to us.

 

We’ve Arrived in Carriacou, kinda…

We had been moored out in the waves and the wind since last report, working half-days, and going in to enjoy the odd restaurant meal with Steve and Maria.   Every trip was used for the accumulation and transportation of ship’s stores and boat parts as well.  The weather had been wet and overcast much of the time, but we got to squeak one afternoon in the Marina pool.  The majority of the happy hours on Cat Tales had been precipitation free, however, and as magical as ever for the two of us.  Bathing behind the boat was lovely, but swimming for exercise in the windy, wavy water was difficult.

 

A lot of our time ashore was reminiscent of our time in May.  We visited about 8 different restaurants.  Many had survived the Covid times by pivoting to a larger take-out business.  We were happy for them as it obviously worked.  However, two places here have had some reluctance in pivoting back to being primarily restaurants.  One in particular, the St. George’s Yacht Club Restaurant, will take your order from the table, and an hour later, they’re bringing bag after bag of takeout to the waiting people at the cash, and your food is nowhere in sight.  The food is good and the view of the harbour is fantastic, so we persevered, and became terrible nags to get our service.  We also walked all the way to Umbrellas Restaurant at the far end of Grande Anse Beach.  There and back was about 10 kilometres, so good on us.  The payback was the most fantastic Thai Curry Lambi we’ve ever had. Sorry, no photos of the dinner plate because we’re busy eating!

 

On Saturday, we finally untied from the mooring and put up our sails.  Going north was difficult with so much north in the wind direction, but intent on a sail, we did six long tacks.  We arrived in a beautiful bay at Isle de Ronde near the tall island with two names: “Kick’em Jenny” and “Diamond Rock”.  Both are problematic.  The first is also the name to the dangerous underwater volcano nearby, and the second is also the name to a similar steep hunk of basalt up by Martinique.  Isle de Ronde was nice and calm, and great for a good long swim.  We stayed two nights, and Dawn served her famous pumpkin soup made in the pressure cooker…enough for three nights.

 

Photo taken during the sweet light just before sunset.

Leaving Isle de Ronde

Yesterday, we motored the last 10 nautical miles to Carriacou, but with north and west in the wind, and not much of that, we realized that Tyrell Bay would be a confused place to anchor, with boats floating in no way influenced by their anchor location.  We sit instead in a seldom-used bay called Cassada, in 20 feet of water a quarter mile from any land, but in flat, calm water.  Although a little unnerving to be the only boat, it is quite sweet.  We put out a motion sensor and our night watchman “Gonzo”, and slept better.

Gonzo has been our night watch man sitting in the cockpit when we’re in bays where we might need a bit more security.

Diamond Rock on our way to Carriacou

 

We have this plan to get to Bequia before Christmas Day, and are watching the weather closely.

 

 

TECHNICAL

 

We have chased down most of the dirty rope and mouldy spaces, but some still wait.  We’ve worked through just a few of the hatches, providing proper cleaning and servicing of the latches and hinges.  That will be ongoing for a while.

 

A big chore for me was the changing out of an exhaust mixing elbow on the starboard engine.  It split at the weld at the flange and was spewing water so bad that it tripped the bilge pump alarm.  We found two in store at Palm Tree Marine, and bought them at the price of a “boat unit” (remember that B.O.A.T. stands for Break Out Another Thousand).  I had the change-out done before 0900h on Tuesday, beating the day’s hottest hours.  Cleaning the bilge was done again, over time, and after a good rinse, the engine got a new coating of anti-corrosion oil.  Interestingly, I had actually stopped the leakage from the original elbow using JB Marine Weld.  I am sincerely impressed.  However, soaking the old elbow in a mixture of vinegar, water, and dish detergent to soften up the carbon deposits inside caused the JB Marine Weld to soften and fall off.  Very curious.  As for the new installation, a hardening of one of the pipes caused another leak, and once again the bilge alarm saved us.  The part of the hose that was flattened by previous clamps had to be cut off, and the clamp moved to a more pliable part of the hose.

Who knew that JB weld would turn into a rubber like coating and fall off after soaking in dilute water and vinegar??

We have a bug in our electronics, specifically the Raymarine AIS system.  We’ll try downloading new software for it.

 

This is a common sight onboard!  First cut, then whip the new end…repeat for next rope!

I’ve also woven a new bridle for the anchor chain.  That took a full day.  It works great, and the Admiral is pleased.    All these chores are interrupted by smaller ones, cleaning, sorting out old stores, and trying to throw things away.

First Weblog After Covid

Last night was the third night on the water for Cat Tales, since April of 2020.  It has been a difficult refit, a fair bit of hard work, but with fantastic luck.

 

We got splashed into Prickley Bay in Grenada on Monday, November 21; and are now in the new mooring field outside of St. George’s.  It has been two rainy days.  We arrived in Grenada on the 10^th, stayed 4 nights in the accommodations over Budget Marine, and 7 nights at Cool Running.  Both locations were dandy for us, and allowed an air-conditioned lunch reprieve while we did our best to acclimatize.

This guy hung around all week, even giving the ladder up to the boat a serious look.  Some locals tell us that they taste like chicken!

 

Steve and Maria of Aspen arrived in the middle of our stay, did some essential boat work, then splashed to carry on their refit in the Port Louis Marina.  Since they had only been out of the water since May, it was less onerous for them.   We, too, had been here in May to do some work on Cat Tales, setting up the schedule purposely to meet with them.  I’ll tell you about that in a later weblog.  For now, know we spent 11 days in the boatyard then to check systems out and make arrangements.  In total, that makes 21 days of boatyard blues.  I figured out, recently, that since purchasing Cat Tales, we have worked over 39 weeks in boatyards.  Some of it was fun, with the satisfaction of finding solutions and of getting things done; but a lot of it was frustrating, hard, dirty, sweaty work.  Covid has resulted in some introspection.  We’ll see if the season heals those thoughts.

 

We are making runs into St. George’s and spending time with the Aspen crew, and other friends we meet in the restaurants, while continuing to do chores on the boat.  We are getting truly caught up, however, and may soon be back to the regular boat maintenance work.  Hopefully, we’ll swing back into our Caribbean life of hiking, socializing, and exploring; and keep you abreast of it here.

 

TECHNICAL

 

One of the chores we worked on in May was the starboard side salon window, the big, curved acrylic window under the signature FP window shade.  I had used Sikaflex 295UV black, and a piece of plastic drinking straw to push the caulking under the front lower section of the window and had loosened the perimeter screws to do it.  I was attempting to screw the screws back down to squeeze the material when the corner screw easily stripped the hole.  The window is a bit raised, and as I went to work in November to fix the hole, I notice that the Sika does not stick to the acrylic.  I’m going ahead with fixing the hole and anchoring the corner down.  I’ll carry on to see how bad the leakage is while at the same time scheming to figure out methods for digging the product out of the hard-to-reach location.

 

We had Turbulence, the rigging company located at the yard, replace the primary 3 wires, toggles, and turnbuckles.  It only got done with a bit of nagging, though the job looks OK.

 

We also had Sea Safety Services provide us with new fire extinguishers (and new brackets), flares, and a new life raft, as required for insurance.  Insurance also had me install a solenoid to control the propane at the tank remotely.  I have had difficulty rigging a light to let me know the status of the solenoid, and may have to rewire with an off-the-shelf control system.

 

The three house batteries will be the three French 75 AH batteries we bought in January of 2020, as miraculously they still do the job.  We bought two 68 AH batteries from a local auto store for starting the engines, and they are doing fine.

I also did a DIY on the escape hatch windows.  There was a recall on some hatches of the same make, saying the glass could drop out in certain circumstances.  I tapped and installed some washers that overlap the upper part of the hatch to make it more difficult for this to happen.

Escape hatch.  Washer placed to hold the window in more snuggly…just in case!

What still works is astounding: the engines sprang to life, including the outboard, all electronics are working but the AIS, which has to be trouble-shooted, water pump, the refrigeration condenser and 220 V cold plate, windlass, and toilet.  Most outrageously, the EchoTech water maker is producing water at 260 ppm, with a membrane that was purchased in 2012 or earlier, and was pickled during Covid.  What will I do with the new membrane I got delivered here, so sure I was that it would be over for that membrane?

PREMATURE SEASON ENDING

It was March 11th, with Cat Tales anchored in Bequia, and we awoke to listen to the morning net.  When the social announcements were being read, I took a turn to invite other cruisers along for our trip on the daycharter of Friendship Rose, scheduled the next week.  Well, it all changed when somebody piped up to say that a case of Covid-19 flu had been found on the big island of St. Vincent, next door.  Not only did we not get any takers for our charter, but our friends began calling about whether we should get our money back and get to Grenada ASAP.

Al and Dawn discussing the seriousness of world news over rum punch at Mac’s Pizza the night before we dashed! 

We made arrangements for credit for the next year for the day charter, and one by one, we sailed out for Carriacou.  Before we left, Dawn attempted to rearrange our flights, haulout, and accommodations, and I cleaned the hulls and began the year-end maintenance.  Although there may have been some false bravado while we had discussed the pandemic in the previous days, the news was full of countries closing their doors and locking down travel and society ahead of the problem.  We all concluded that, to keep our options open at least, we should get to Grenadian territory so we could at least be legally checked into the island where we intended to be hauled out.  Our traveling tribe at this point was: Clarity (Rick and Deb), Changes (Chris and Fran), and Tarantela (Al and Michele), with Fido (Don and Fiona) coming in the next day.   

We all checked into the country at Tyrell, with the Immigration Officer in a mask interviewing each captain outside of the office before we could enter to clear customs.  Rick of Clarity, still on his obvious hiking kick, asked if we could organise a hike, and we picked a good one for the next day, the hill at the back of Tyrell Bay: Chapeau Carre.  Some climbed over, and some took the road around, but most of us got a good bit of exercise.  We had a little trouble finding a lunch spot, but ultimately got a very nice meal.  One bad story:  As a result of the Covid scare, the restaurant had everyone wearing gloves, but without proper training as to the objectives.  Dawn went to the kitchen area to add to her order, and caught the waitress blowing her nose behind the counter with her gloves on.  We survived, but realized immediately how useless rubber gloves can be without proper training.

Dawn and Michele going up, up, up!

Michele is still smiling, remarkably!

Another outstanding view from the top of the mountain!

Everyone was planning a beach day for the next morning at Paradise Beach, and were intending to meet up with Fido, who had spent the night in Chatham Bay, just 12 miles to the north.  However, as Dawn monitored the international news, we got cold feet and told all that we would be heading for Prickly Bay.  We may also have been spooked by the extra entry requirements and the poorly understood rubber gloves in the restaurants.  Tarantela, who intended to be hauled out in Trinidad, were waiting for forms to fill in to comply with new Covid restrictions for entry.

We had a lovely sail down to the anchorage outside of St. Georges, carried out more year-end maintenance the next morning, and motored around in light wind to our usual anchor spot outside of the Spice Island boatyard.  The water was outrageously flat, making the trip around to Prickly Bay the easiest, kindest we ever had.

The next morning, Tuesday, March 17th, we got hauled out of the water, 23 days earlier than scheduled.  Luckily, our relationship with Cool Running resulted in no problems with accommodations, and Dawn had acquired Air Canada tickets for Saturday, 4 days away.  We worked hard on getting the boat sorted out, and I think we did a reasonable job, doing little more than what was necessary to minimize deterioration.  When we get back to the boat, however, I’ll want 10 days on the hard to sort out all the issues.

We got home on Sunday, the same day that Grenada closed the airport to all flights.  Several who decided to spend an afternoon on Paradise Beach were stressed with the feeling of abandonment, but Air Canada made special arrangements to fly for another week, picking them all up.  Interestingly, Tarantela ended up hauling in our boatyard when Trinidad closed its doors days earlier than advertised.  

The airport in Grenada was comparatively normal, but for people a little on edge.  Some were keeping an extra foot or so apart (like us), while some had themselves and their children in masks and gloves, usually with more face-touching than normal.  Toronto airport was different.  Very few were within 6 feet of each other, and most were avoiding handrails, etc.  Our lineup for our room at the airport hotel was almost comical, as any lineup at all filled the foyer.  We got at least 3 different communications about our need for 14 days of quarantine.

We flew into Fredericton, with snow on the ground and a cold wind.  Hugh and his niece had driven our car in and left it for us, and we came directly home to a functioning household, filled by Hugh and Liz with enough groceries to carry out the quarantine.  A few days later, Ron and Judy picked up another big load of fresh food from Costco.  Here we are 3 weeks home and haven’t gone for our own groceries yet.  We are always blown away by the generosity of our friends, knowing we don’t deserve it. 

Feeding the fire is now one of our daily rituals.

Our view of Grand Lake.  The water is rising, but at the moment is still below flood stage.  The next couple weeks will tell the tale!

Our time since then has been, for the most part, the new normal; with good food, social time on the computers only, and feeding the wood stove.  

We are thankful to have been able to make it home.  We are in communication with a good number of friends who are stuck on their boats, anchored or tied up to islands who do not want them, but will not let them leave.  Even if they did leave, they can not check into another island because they have closed their borders.  It is a mess, and it may get worse as these islands are quite full of many locals who live hand-to-mouth.  

TECHNICAL

After a little stressful negotiation, Budget Marine took back the remaining two start batteries they had sold as deep cycle batteries for full credit (the third had been traded for various stuff with Fred of Dakota Dream).  The engines got cleaned out with some solvent added to the oil, then an oil change.  The saildrive with the bad seals got an emptying, and a clean-out with kerosene, then got filled with good oil for storage.  When we get back, the seals will be replaced in both saildrives.  Many other projects will be waiting for our return as well.

Cat Tales is out of the water over a month earlier than scheduled.  We’re so fortunate to have  had the cooperation of the boatyard, Cool Running Apartments and of course, Air Canada to get this show on the road!

Oblivious To The Pandemic

(Our movements and news, from February 19th to March 12th, 2020)

Cat Tales and crew continued to enjoy Ste. Anne, Martinique, with trips into Marin, hikes to Saline Bay, and happy hours with Changes, Clarity, and Denis and Arlene Webster ashore.  After a wonderful lunch at the Pirates’ Restaurant at the “Wobbly Dock”, we got invited to see Denis and Arlene’s tidy apartment up the hill behind the restaurant.  Denis and Arlene sold “Tiger Lily II” a couple years ago but still enjoy their old stomping grounds by renting an apartment.  We can see, that they have a safe and reasonable alternative to traveling to and from a boat, typically with groceries and boat repair equipment and kitch.  Actually, it reminded Dawn and me of a very similar apartment we rented in Pointe-a-Pitre back in the 1990s:  a long room with bathroom near the door to the common hallway, a bedroom, and a balcony kitchen.

Dinner in Saint Anne with Denis & Arlene, Chris & Fran, and Rick & Deb

Denis & Arlene’s kitchenette outside on the balcony of their apartment in Martinique.  This is Denis and Deb (s/v Clarity)

It was soon time for a change, and on February 24th, Dawn and I checked out of Martinique with the computer at Snack Bou Bou (possibly with a cheater chicken and a tank of dinghy gas), and left the anchorage the next day for Rodney Bay.  Customs at Rodney was easy, but the Immigration lady was absent, so we sat at an extended lunch and beer break with John Fallon, s/v Stoppknot and Mike White, s/v Jackfish, and got all caught up on their news.  Indeed, every time we got to shore, we could find these two eating lunch or ice cream, but at different venues.  However, we did finish up the formalities and paperwork eventually - which included a visit to a Health Department office in the Rodney complex.  Interestingly, there was very little discussed regarding any new bugs, though I did get info on the island’s success in fighting the Dengue mosquito.  Success or not, we were visited by night mosquitos every night we were anchored off of Reduit Beach, in the bay.

A group of us hiking from Rodney Bay over the mountain and down into Cas en Bas, Saint Lucia

We also found our friend John, of s/v Manana, and connected up with him, Jenny of s/v Tanglewood, and Don of s/v Fido for a hike over to Cas-en-Bas.  It was a lovely afternoon, though a bit strenuous for Don’s newest hip.

On our way to check out of Rodney on March 1st, we were lucky to again catch John and Mike, and also captured Robin Unwin as he went by, and very happily got our visit in with him.

That evening, we sailed down to a little cliff-sided bay called Canaries, to get a 2 hour head start on the trip to Bequia.  The sail the next day was lovely, with very much north in the wind angle.  Indeed, there was not much of a wind shadow down the west side, but for a half hour at the far south corner.  Interestingly, in the channel to the south of St. Lucia, we found, through AIS, that s/v Changes was approaching from the north.  Both boats had enjoyable sails, but with Changes motoring further than us, as he chose to be closer to the island, with more of a wind shadow.  The motoring took them, at 6.5 knots, far ahead of us, and they arrived in Bequia at least 45 minutes early.

The next evening, we caught up with Rick of s/v Clarity, who was solo after Deb flew home to help out with a sister with some medical trouble.  Rick, with Chris and Fran of s/v Changes, joined us for a few evenings on Bar 1, the floating bar.  Rick, however, wanted us to tour some of our favourite Bequia hikes with him, and we quickly organized one to Ma Peggy Rock, then another, two days later to the park above Cinnamon Gardens.  We enjoyed a great meal after that one at the Firefly Restaurant (and pool), being joined by Chris and Fran, as well as two new friends, George and June of s/v Fathom This.

A group youngsters celebrating a 40th birthday party with an ‘80s theme at Bar One in Bequia

After a good hike up to Peggy’s Rock in Bequia, we stopped to enjoy the view and a break before doing the treacherous downward hike.

Another gorgeous view of Admiralty Bay from Ma Peggy’s Rock!

One of the things we were intending to do while in Bequia, was to organize a group of sailors to again go for a day-charter on the Friendship Rose, as we had last year.  We were getting pretty well set up for it, and Dawn and I paid the fee along with a couple other boats, and even asked for more sailors to join us on the morning net.  All was going well, when, on Wednesday, March 11th, the morning VHF net, somebody reported that the main island, St. Vincent, had its first verified case of Covid-19.  And, with canceling the Friendship Rose trip and many hops later, we were on the move with fire on our heels.  Well, all for now.

TECHNICAL

While we were slamming away to Pointe-a-Pitre earlier in the season (fun sail, actually), Dawn informed me that salt water was finding its way into the starboard hull through a side port (window).  Later, as we were returning south, she said a port-side port was also leaking.  We took the time to open all four of the ports, and Dawn cleaned the salt and corrosion deposits to try to get better seals on these windows.  However, the gaskets on the open windows looked like crap.  Then, as we attempted to sail in heavy seas to get around Diamond Rock to Ste. Anne, solid green seas were hitting the giant, wrap-around windows of the salon, on the port side.  We tracked that down and realized we had a lot of trouble.

While in Ste. Anne, we traveled into Marin, and purchased gasket, neoprene cement, and a giant tube of black Sikaflex 295UV.

Dawn digging out the gasket that Laurie had reinforced ages ago with 5200 glue.

We replaced  the gaskets on all 5 port windows, and were happy with the job.  Then, I went to work on about a metre of the edge of the salon window, manufacturing tools and improvising to dig out old calking as much as we could.  The interior fill was some kind of foam tape, about 5 mm thick and at least 30 mm wide, with the true seal and glue on the outside of that.  Once satisfied with a deep enough opening on the outside edge, we taped up the area with great amounts of paper and tape, using old editions of Caribbean Compass.  Then, together, we attempted to squirt the Sikaflex into the edge.  It did not work, which was no surprise, but I had gloved up, and had various tools on hand.  Both the West stir sticks and a flexible plastic spatula for spreading filler worked just fine for getting at least 4 mm of the black stuff in, and within two hours the removal of the tape made the seam look Bristol-fashion.

We also had been having trouble with our baseboards.  Leaking windows and poor maintenance (mostly while under charter, before we had taken ownership, I swear) had taken their toll on these long, 4 mm thick boards, causing them to delaminate.  I had found, by accident a shop called Caribbean Woods in Bequia on the way up the island chain, and upon our return, we spent 2 hours removing the boards and took them ashore for new cuts.  The fitting, staining, and 3 coats of varnish are done, and the boards are at present waiting to be glued back on.

Ringo of Bequia Caribbean Woods cutting plywood in baseboards that would exactly fit into the spaces onboard Cat Tales.  Laurie is here in the background getting the wood measured for the cuts.  The price was very reasonable and we’re looking forward to our baseboards back in place next season.  Dawn resisted the urge to help this young man pull his pants up!

Our new baseboards, all sanded and varnished, are awaiting their installation when we return to Cat Tales.

Sailing and Hiking Down the Chain of Islands

We just landed in Sainte Anne, Martinique on Sunday, and by end of day Monday, we had:

Visited with Terry and Evelyn (Aquarrelle);
Visited again with Aquarelle along with Denis and Arlene, who are vacationing on land, and with Susie and Lance (Queen Emma) at a coffee meeting at Palle Coco;
Did the “Chicken Walk”, circling the town and returning with a barbecued chicken and fresh produce;
Enjoyed a Boubou Bokit with Swiss friends (s/v Opus);
Had happy hour with Denis and Arlene, Terry and Evelyn, Debbi and Rick (Clarity), and Fran and Chris (Changes).

We returned to the boat, and walked the next day to Saline Bay for a beach lunch.  Seems it doesn’t take too long to conquer a place anymore.

We had said our sad goodbyes to Steve and Maria over a couple of Ti Punches in Pte-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe, and had a very nice 4-hour sail into the Saintes, finding a mooring ball immediately.  I should say two other things happened, however:  Our ground tackle, filled with the organic of the Pte-a-Pitre harbour, began to stink immediately, making our enjoyment aboard rather difficult.  Because we are required to take a mooring ball in Les Saintes, we were stuck with our smelly chain and anchor.  We opened the anchor locker and aired it out for days, before the odour disappeared.  I also had to clean a lot of barnacles off the boat, and truly scrub our bronze propeller assemblies.

As soon as we were tied up, we announced our arrival to good friends from Cape Breton:  Catherine and Peter (Charlotte D) besides a couple of good meals and a great happy hour, we also shared a couple of hikes and their personalized tour of the downtown - they have been spending the majority of the last two seasons right here.  Something we did together that was novel, was take a ferry ride to Terre d’en Bas, the Saintes island to the west of the basin.  We didn’t hike too far, as it was raining, the trails were muddy and a bit dog-toothed after Hurricane Maria, and I (Laurie) had a footwear failure.  Still, we enjoyed a good lunch and enjoyed some novel views.

Taking the ferry from the main island of Les Saintes to a less inhabited, smaller island, just for the fun of it!

Dawn hidden away in a giant conch shell on Terre e’en Bas in Les Saintes

Before we left the Saintes, Dawn and I had a good leg-stretcher as we hiked to Fort Caroline, overlooking Baie do Pompierre.  We got adopted immediately by a little dog, who I think hiked the same trail 4 years earlier with us and Lorna and Brian.  He was amazing, he peed on almost every bush, and then backed up to one bush and hung a dog-poo on the crotch of another bush.  Very entertaining indeed.

This is the dog who adopted us for this walk.  Lorna and Brian may remember him.  He was not disturbed by the goat head mounted on a fence post!

We almost had an accident along the top of a cliff when Dawn became aware that she was standing beside a goat’s head, mounted on a fence post.  The scream almost had me jump to my death.

Dawn was standing next to this and when she turned to look towards it, the goat head was shocking!  Quite a scream  came from her!

Travelling to Portsmouth, Dominica, on January 26th., was another sweet 4-hour sail for us, one of those days when we sailed fast, but without a salty splash on the boat.  As it was Sunday, we were able to take in the PAYS Sunday Barbecue, where the boat service people raise money to carry out yacht security.  We amazingly had no close friends in the Bay, so quickly made new ones.  Of course, we know most of the PAYS guys well, so it wasn’t an issue anyway.  While left on our own, we investigated new and old restaurants, and the numerous changes that were noticeable after a two-year absence.  At the far end of our wanderings we found a place that served falafel, salad and hummus in a pita, and then did that hike twice!

This is the brand new resort Kempenski, located on the Douglas Bay side of Dominica.  We saw no paying guests as yet, but there were rumours of a few.  It was absolutely stunning!

This is the Moroccan Cabrits resort on the Prince Rupert side of the bay.  They have been working on this resort for years now, and they claim that “this is the year”!!  They had extensive damage during Hurricane Maria, and had to back track a bit on the construction.

Here in this photo, is the Moroccan Cabrits resort on the lower right, while this brand new development going up the hill is a housing development for locals who lost homes during the last hurricane, along with Citizens for Investment group.   A couple of our boat boy friends are already enjoying living there.  So, if you wish to have a passport for Dominica, you can!

These lights have been installed all over the island of Dominica.  The windmill and solar makes them “off the grid” for the next hurricane.  Hopefully, they can stand up to the winds!

By Friday, we were joined by Anina and Charlie (Prism) and Kim and Dean (Dreamcatcher), and, after a quick tour of the Cabrits Historical Site with other yachties, we were planning a big hike.  Tuesday, February 4th., had us hiking the Waitukubuli Trail with them as well as Penny and George (Star Shot). Interestingly, I found out that George’s middle name is Laurence, while my middle name is George (first name Laurence).  It was fun and picturesque, though the hurricane damage was always visible, and some landslides were treacherous.  One ledge crossing will haunt us for quite a while.

The group fresh off the local bus ready to begin Section 13.

Anina and Charlie from s/v Prism hiking section 13 of the Waitukubuli Trail

The end of the trail cool down!

The bus driver gave us coconuts to drink.  I’m thinking that it might be nice cold with rum...

Even the cooling relaxing dip was a piece of working getting down to it and back up from it.

The hiking group, or at least the ones who made it over the ledge!

This gentleman showed us one of his dasheen that he harvested.  His hiking stick was an old crutch.  He was delighted to see us along this lonely, long, steep trail where he farms.

After dropping off some new brochures for Bonty, our adopted boat-boy, we left Prince Rupert Bay in the company of Dream Catcher, on Thursday, February 5th, and had another nice enough sail over to St. Pierre.  After checking in, Dawn and I gave Kim and Dean a reasonable tour of the west coast of Martinique, stopping and hiking in Anse Mitan, and in Grande Anse d’Arlet.  In the last spot, we actually did two hikes Dawn and I had not done before.  We bussed to a village called Taupiniere, and hiked through the south coast through Grande Pointe, Pointe du Marigot, and Grande Anse du Diamant.  Although long, it was a fun, reasonably flat, and shady hike along the shore, with almost no other hikers.  The other hike was a previously ignored path over Cap Salomon that looped back to its starting point.  Interesting, short, but a little steep and treacherous; with Kim finally “blessing the hill” with her own older Anglo-Saxon phrases.

A fishing village just at the beginning of the lovely flat hike.

Hiking in the shade on flat ground for 3 hours...a breeze!

Just before lunch and a beer, we cozied up with some tourists for a picturesque view and photo op!

The next day, the hike was significantly shorter, however, it was mighty steep up and down!

We split up with Dream Catcher on Sunday, with them heading to Rodney Bay and picking up company, and us coming around Rocher du Diamant and into Sainte Anne.  That trip was 4 hours, and a battle into large breaking waves.  We found a few leaky windows, 2 which we knew about and 2 we didn’t know about - still a good sailboat, but with some failings as a submarine.  One is already fixed as it was just a loose handle on the closure.

Laurie doing a little barnacle cleaning...

While I (Dawn) take my underwater camera for a little snorkel.

Here’s a snippet of the article Laurie had published in the Caribbean Compass last month.  If you want to read it, go here to download the free magazine.: https://caribbeancompass.com/ and select January’s issue.

TECHNICAL

Sadly, our biggest problems are our starboard engine and sail drive.  First we noticed that our sail drive lube oil was milky, meaning we have failed seals.  I ran the sail drive to stir up the oil, and changed the top half - all I can get from the top.  I’ll likely do it again before haul out.  Then, when checking the engine in Dominica, I found that, once again, the engine had spit out its dipstick and threw out most of its oil in the engine room.  I was cleaning that up for days.  Now we are babying that engine, using it only for anchoring only, and discussing what can be done.  I think another cleansing is in order, and I have purchased a bottle of H5 Heavy Duty Motor Flush.

Otherwise, things are pretty good.  I’ve changed one rope in the lazy jacks, and got one of the leaks fixed, and am planning on tackling the rest before the next crossing.