Ashore, we found people friendly, but Little Bay is starkly dirty and just a giant construction site. We found that Montserrat, with the help of CIDA, Britain, and other development agencies, is rebuilding all of Little Bay to be its main port and entryway now that Plymouth is buried in lava, rocks, and ash. We stopped at a dive shop/bar to talk to an expat American and get some insight into the place. While enjoying the beer we had purchased from him, we noticed that a swell had arrived in the Bay. By the time we got back into our dinghy, the trucks were having a hard time getting on and off the giant barge, as the ramp went up, down, left, right. From our boat, we watched the swell grow even larger.
We called the tug and asked if we were in danger. As he and his tug got slammed by the barge, he said we were safe but he was in danger. Minutes later, two of the many giant hawsers that were holding the barge in place broke. The excavator ran down the ramp and bounced onto the dock as the tug struggled to hold the barge and ramp in place. Amid yelling and screaming, the workmen struggled to undo the remaining giant ropes, and the tug and crew attempted to leave the dock. Dawn and I quickly hauled up our anchor and moved out of the way as the barge swung in the swells and its big ramp flew by where Cat Tales had been a moment before. Right now, the tug is further out waiting for a calm day to complete the last ¼ loading. Another tug and barge appeared today, and both sit and watch the swells pound the beach. Interestingly, there is a giant, long mound of ripped and busted metal in the corner of the bay that was also a barge. We’re told it busted loose during northerly swells in 2004, and gives a reminder of what could happen here.
Today, we partnered with Walter of Madness, and hired a 4x4 tour van and driver for a 4 hour tour of the island. Although we saw bits of rainforest and got reacquainted with many trees and plants with the guide’s help, and although we got a great overview as to how this island is coping and coming to grips with its situation, the two most important stops were a volcano observatory in the central hills and another hilltop viewing point that looked over the destroyed city of Plymouth. The volcano and its devastation are awesome to look at. The still-smoking volcano continues to drop bits of fine-grained ash onto Plymouth and the surrounding area.
Every year or so since the major eruptions in 1995 and1997, the dome of the volcano builds up and then collapses; creating another pyroclastic flow down the various valleys. On even more regular intervals, the dome spits up hot ash and rocks, that can be seen at night from sea and from some other vantage points, glowing as they roll down the hill. The tour was pretty cool.
Tomorrow, at first light, we continue to Guadeloupe.
