Monday, December 21, 2015

Tyrell Bay, Carriacou, Waiting for Santa



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It is a hot, windy Sunday, and, after a hike with s/v Aspen, s/v Peace and Plenty, and s/v Moody Blues ((Gene and Susea (the spelling is another story)), Dawn has left me on the boat to read, fix stuff and write while she goes with the crowd to play dominoes.

We had a fine sail up to Carriacou on Monday with Aspen.  Aspen took the traditional route to the tip of Grenada and motored even further upwind to make the last couple of hours through the open ocean easily and on one tack.  Cat Tales stayed off Grenada, turned the motor off as soon as the refrigeration and watermaker chores were done, and ended up off Carriacou by 7 nautical miles.  So, we arrived an hour and a half after Steve and Maria.   Purity apparently has a price.

As a shakedown cruise, it was a success.  However, we hit some real rough water in the area known locally as "Kick-em-Jenny", and one particular plunge between waves had us changing immediately between 6.5 knots and 2.5 knots with one hell of a bang.  It made me quite appreciative of the $650 US I had spent in October on welding for the forward crossmember.  The crew, rather used to violent changes to velocity, had little trouble, just big eyes.

Peace and Plenty presented both of us with an offer of dinner by radio while both boats were hours out, and at the appointed time, we enjoyed French wine, French cheeses, and French pate, with many choices and trimmings in Lorna and Brian's cockpit.  It was a wonderful evening, and a long one.

Since then, we've been rather social every second day/night, with quiet days in between for reading, repairing, and recuperating.  As well, we have been joined by friends aboard Moody Blues, mentioned above, with whom we had bonded in 2008.  It has been great!

Wednesday was declared a beach day, and we went to the north shore: Paradise Beach, where our friend Curtis runs a little place called Off de Hook for sitting, reading, swimming, drinking, eating, and haircutting (he has a barbershop attached).   We've mentioned this place many times before as it is spectacular, with beautiful white sand and a commanding view of many of our favourite islands of the Grenadines.  We have had our Holiday pictures done from here a few times, and you will see that we have done it again.  This time, the best shots and the choreography were courtesy of Susea, who even has a Steve Miller Band album cover to her credit.
Major photobomb on Brian and Lorna's Christmas photo.  Who was that idiot??!
Susea trying to get the best shot of all of us poor subjects!  "Work with me, work with me!!"
Lorna and Brian without Laurie!
Dawn & Laurie with Union Island in the background to the right
Maria and Steve from s/v Aspen
Susea showing us how to model for a photo-shoot!

Susie and Gene s/v Moody Blues.  Job done!!

Friday morning, we determined we'd take a local bus to a community on the far side of this little island, called Windward.  Once we got there, we chatted the driver up about what we wanted to see, and it became plain that he could and would be our guide for a couple of hours.  We got to see two local boats being manufactured (heavy timber from Guyana, planking a yellow pine from Honduras), a rather ancient well, and a major, old graveyard being assaulted by the sea.  Regarding that, we pieced together that the increase in sea level over the last 150 years has been exacerbated by the mining of beach sand by some unscrupulous contractors to cause even relatively new graves to fall to the mercy (or lack thereof) of the sea.  I think you will agree that the picture is quite something. 
Graves and erosion!

Malcolm, our bus driver and the crew of us wandering around the sights of Windward, Carricou

















Boatbuilding in Windward
Ancient well


Friday night we attended a party at Tanty Lizzy's Seaside Fountain.  We warmed up at a sundowner bar nearby, then joined other cruisers and locals for wine, a wonderful tray of local food, and the sweet sounds of a cruiser who calls himself Barracuda, accompanied by two other musicians.  There were some humourous antics on the dancefloor among the cruisers and locals, but it would be unfair to describe them.  Also, the decorations were decidedly "Valentine's Day-ish", with only red and white balloons, red and white ribbons, Tanty Lizzy's big and beautiful red dress, and of course big hearts; but who would be so fussy to mind? Just think, they don't have to re-decorate for Valentine's Day!
Christmas Party at Tanty Lizzy's
Not only can Tanty Lizzy cook, you should see her dance :-)
A good time was had by all!


So, here we are on the odd day again:  we've had our hike, Dawn is presently at the Slipway Restaurant sipping beer and playing dominoes; but there is more to come.  The eight of us are scheduled to hit the Lazy Turtle Restaurant for pizzas tonight.  Stay tuned.


Technical:

The batteries are not causing too much trouble.  We run the engines in the morning with the refrigerator cold plate and for the ham radio, but rely on solar, wind, and the old batteries to keep the freezer working, so we're still better off than boats without solar and wind.  The engine room boards have been soaked in fresh water to get the salt out of them so they would dry properly, and this week, we dried them and finished painting them.  We also located a vent that has been allowing salt water spray to do the damage to them and attached a home-made elbow out of a water bottle and duct tape to see if it can be managed (we need the air but not the water).  The work on the older snap screws for the salon window covers must have been the sources of leakage, because the last few storms have resulted in a dry bunk.  The sunbrella cover over the engine controls in the cockpit has been re-stitched by Lorna.  Well over two hours were spent on my sandals that completely fell apart during our tour of Windward.  Whoever is selling sandals to Canadian Tire need to understand that there are some glues that do not dissolve in water.  A two-year-old could have disassembled the sandals.  Now, 3M 4000 caulking is making these worth the money, but I want compensation for the time.

I have a volt meter that is wired through all three battery banks, allowing a toggle switch to provide the voltage of each.  It is fused on the negative return wire, but our boat surveyor insists that to be safe and conforming to codes each positive lead has to be fused.  I installed these this week, although I got dizzy from rolling my eyes at the need.

Regarding our slow approach to Carriacou, we suffered from large waves and a pinching course, but also, the tide was coming in to the Caribbean sea from the Atlantic (filling the headwaters of the Gulf Stream), and the outrageous differences between our heading and our COG (course over ground) suggests that in the deep water between the major islands we were getting pushed to the west by up to two knots.  Our new electronics, with such great reporting of all things GPS allows us to also see that whenever Cat Tales' speed through the water drops below 5 knots, we suffer significantly increased leeway.  Therefore, pinching is a poor option - bear downwind and enjoy the speed.