Tuesday, December 12, 2017

Heading for Martinique

It is time for another update – not just because the last one was November 26, but because we are leaving for Martinique tomorrow, and anticipating significant frustration in dealing with communication.
The few days after our last blog continued at the same pace, doing similar stuff: victualizing, getting boat parts, and picking off the constant repairs and chores – especially those intended to be done in the boatyard. 
We could have spent weeks in Prickly Bay, and certainly had intended to spend a week in the anchorage outside St. George, enjoying that city and the second chandlery there.  However, we all had “itchy keels”, and Peace and Plenty, Tiger Lily II, and Cat Tales headed for Carriacou on November 30, during a forecasted weather window.  Tiger Lily II was being sailed by the new owners, but with Denis and Arleen aboard as consultants/guests, as per the purchase agreement.
The weather window promised under 18 knots, low waves, and a little veering to give us a southerly component.  As Carriacou’s Tyrell Bay is to the east of Carriacou, we would either need some southerly breeze or have to tack back and forth to the east.  As it was, we all made it without a tack, and well before dark.  Indeed, as we headed into the harbour, a sweet voice declared that tonight was Pizza Night at the Iguana Pub in the Tyrell Boatyard, with specials on both staple foods: pizza and beer.  We, along with Lorna and Brian (Peace and Plenty) met all four crewmembers of Tiger Lily II, as well as Baidarka and Prism’s crews for what turned out to be a raucous party with great pizzas; a fantastic way to end the “Friends of Denis” era, with Denis and Arleen in attendance.  Sure, we’ll be meeting up with other members of the tribe for the rest of our lives, but can it be the same?
Interestingly, it also signalled the start of my writing an article describing the FOD phenomenon for the Caribbean Compass, and it will probably be in the February issue.  I am checking facts and rounding up the pictures now.

Denis and Arleen toasting to their next chapter.  Last we heard they were looking out at SNOW back in Canada!!

Tyrell Bay also provided the quiet that allowed us to turn the three large bundles of callaloo, onions, peppers and spices, into the biggest and best-tasting callaloo soup to date.  We had Lorna and Brian as well as Charlie and Anina over to try it out, and they gave us – especially me – rave reviews.  (I know – Dawn tells me how and what to do)
A weather window arrived rather quickly, and once more, an island got the short shrift from us.  We sailed for Bequia on December fourth, again having a very nice time of it, as the waves were low and the angle of the wind allowed us to arrive without a tacking duel.  Just as well, for sure, as Peace and Plenty had lost their autohelm, and had to take turns standing at the wheel and reacting to the waves and wind.  At least the overcast sky kept us a few degrees cooler.  It was also a short stay:  We stretched our legs, hit the chandlery, tried a new restaurant over by Daffodil Laundry station (with the crews of Baidarka and Changes), and looked for a weather window.  Getting north at the start of the season is easy – as long as it is at the start of the season.  Soon, things will change with more northerly winds with more strength – and we’ll visit all this real estate on our way back south in the spring.

Laurie just happened to be up the mast doing some work when Joanna and Bill motored by to say goodbye!  They didn't even notice Laurie way up there until I pointed him out.

Laurie up the mast checking things for safety and repairing bungie cord and changing out a lightbulb for an LED bulb.  I'm at the bow trying to stay out of the way in case he drops a tool...

Tyrell Bay.  Baidarka (Joanna and Bill) heading over to see us.


The sail to St. Lucia on December 7th was also quite pleasant, although again arduous for Peace and Plenty – hand steering.  We left at 0400 hours, and arrived at 1800 hours; truly a long day.  While Lorna and Brian stood at the wheel, Dawn and I lounged about and grumbled about a speaker that vibrated too much during a few Neil Young songs.  The wind continued to veer all day, allowing us to make the easting, and only returned to our nose at Castries – forcing an hour of the Iron Jib to make port before dark.  Although Rodney Bay was reasonably empty, it took Dawn and I five tries to anchor.  Terry of Silk Pajamas took pleasure in reminding me, as we passed his boat, that I had a published article on how to anchor in the October issue of Compass – and I should read it.  Mercifully, Peace and Plenty grabbed the bottom on the first try, and promptly went to bed.
We have continued to victualize and socialize while here: meeting John Fallon at the Bread Basket for lunch, re-engaging with the people at the chandlery, meeting Robin Unwin, the friend and local shipwright at the boatyard pub, and meeting Steve of s/v Tanglewood at the mall food court – all the while hauling our other friends around with us; including Steve and Maria of Aspen, who came in yesterday and are planning to leave with us tomorrow.  We have also spent an evening with Terry and Kristin of Silk Pajamas; who have Martin of Providence, one of the Dominican PAYS boatboys aboard to address the ARC participants.  Oh yes, that’s a big thing, as we are in sight of the ARC finish line as these happy sailors cross and are greeted.  Lorna says one came in this morning before we awoke, with a jury-rigged spinnaker on a pole that was not the original mast; so there has been some trouble for some of them.  They have all been sailing across the Atlantic for a couple weeks and are tired and happy to be in Saint Lucia!
Lorna and Brian sailing on Peace and Plenty leaving Carriacou heading for Bequia

One sad note is how so much of Rodney Bay reminds us of Johnny Marley, our friend, who died while we were gone.  We saw him almost daily, on every visit, since 2005; and really did enjoy the friendship.
I have just finished a report for the Caribbean Compass resulting from playing “20 Questions” with Martin (from Dominica) regarding the status of Dominica since Hurricane Maria had her way with the island.  Chasing down pictures has been an event, with us and others emailing out for recent stuff. Hopefully, the report will convince some sailors to visit and help their economy recover.  We are going in today to hear Martin speak formally to the group, and to hear Chris Doyle, the author of our cruising guides, address new sailors into the Caribbean.
Tomorrow, we sail for St. Anne.  The weather looks lovely for the trip!

TECHNICAL
We are getting kind votes of approval for our newly painted stern steps, and enjoying that immensely; though it does reflect what a mess they were before.  Our new traveler bearings have made sail handling a joy.
Odd jobs continue to be crossed off our list, and leaving more space on our “white board” for other things.  One chore is taking some time:  The handles on the Morse/Teleflex engine controls have been deteriorating, and I have devised a repair.  However, I could not get them to come off the controls due to differential metal corrosion.  Many sprays of penetrating oil, a lot of wiggling, and regular whacking with my new impact driver over a few days allowed access yesterday, and we hope to have a complete, painted repair a day or so after we make Martinique.
I have lost confidence in our forward trampoline’s strength, and have undertaken a stopgap measure until we can source a replacement.  I spent hours feeding through a small line in a zig-zag pattern to make it less likely somebody could be lost.  The picture shows the result.

Laurie spent a few hours out in the sun spinning his web to reinforce the trampoline.  A new trampoline is on our list to find somewhere over the next season.

Furling problems at the top of the jib furler.  A job for Martinique next week.

At present, we have an irregular buzzer coming from the starboard engine, suggesting some sort of short related to the alternator, and the port engine seems to want to set fire to its alternator belt regardless of tension.  I also have a couple of allen screws missing from the top of our jib furler.  I took a picture to show our rigger in Le Marin, Martinique next week.  (We actually didn’t get our mast and rig survey until Dawn cranked me up the mast in Tyrell Bay)  So... there is always something to do on Cat Tales.