Again, we’ve been told:
“Time for an update!”
We are STILL in Ste. Anne, Martinique. This is approaching the longest we’ve ever been in one place, and with a big wind coming tomorrow, we’re going for a record. To be fair, it depends on how you look at it. Check this out:
On the 5th of January, not long after our last
update, we were awakened by a weak voice on the VHF asking for assistance with
a medical emergency. Barbara on s/v My
Island Girl (MIG – we’ll say), was calling saying her husband Winston woke up
with an eye problem that he guessed correctly was a detached retina. Within seconds, Brian had responded and
dropped his dinghy, and he met Fred of s/v Dakota Dream (more about Fred later)
with his dinghy at the back of the pack where MIG was anchored. Barbara started to organize the abandoning of
the boat while options were discussed and calls made. Minutes later, Winston and Barbara were at
the Fort de France hospital. Finding
their special equipment for these issues in disrepair, the couple caught an evening
flight to Miami where professionals awaited.
The rest of our little community organized with Barbara by
email the handling of s/v MIG, emptying the larder and organizing the moving of
the boat back to Rodney Bay, its normal off-season storage location. That trip was done on Monday, the 15th,
with Brian of s/v Peace and Plenty and Steve of s/v Tanglewood crewing
her. MIG is a Bayfield 44; a long, low,
stylish monohull with an overhanging stern and bow, and a long bowsprit. With a short waterline and a very full keel,
she sails reasonably, tracks well, but manoeuvres with difficulty in confined
spaces (I am told). Cat Tales, with
Laurie, Dawn, and Lorna went along as Plan A for bringing the crew back to Ste.
Anne and their boats on the same day.
The sail was lovely, and Cat Tales enjoyed moving
again. Ashore for Customs and lunch, we
met such a crowd of other sailors that it was a loud party in the little
restaurant along the marina boardwalk.
We actually organized Plan B of the return, with Brian and Steve hopping
aboard s/v Stoppknot, and assisting to get John Fallon and his boat over to
Ste. Anne. As we left Rodney Bay rather
late (Stopp Knot needed fuel and water), we had the tedious and stressful job
of coming the last 5 miles into the anchorage slowly and with flashlights to watch
for fishpots. Still, Cat Tales, with
Brian aboard at the end, all of us overtired, ate our still-warm chicken roties
purchased in St. Lucia and drank our stress away before retiring.
Brian and Steve preparing My Island Girl for the trip back to St. Lucia while Winston and Barbara deal with Winston's detached retina |
John aboard his boat Stoppknot re-anchoring after arriving in St. Anne (with Brian and Mike aboard to help) |
By the way, John is happy with his change of scenery. We have given him the lay of the land,
touring both Ste. Anne and Marin, and any chandleries he may have missed in the
past. He took in a beach barbecue yesterday,
and is enjoying time with Mike of s/v Jackfish, anchored nearby. A water barge provided him with service this
morning.
We met Fred of Dakota Dream, a 37-38’ high-sided catamaran
just out of charter, on the way into Bequia earlier in the season. He was trying to keep up with Peace and
Plenty, and was complimenting them on their speed. Brian confessed he was also using his iron
jib, but a contact was made. Days later,
when Lorna called for help as an Island Packet monohull (IP) was dragging down
on Peace and Plenty, Fred was the first one there, beating me to the
rescue. Fred, Brian, a gentleman on
another IP, and I all wrestled with the two boats, and pretty much used our
dinghies as fenders as the unoccupied dragging boat slid by. Brian re-anchored P&P up where the IP
originated, while the rest of us figured out how to put out more chain and lay
out an emergency second anchor on the IP.
Weeks later, we hear Fred came to the rescue again (via John
of Stoppknot on the SSB) , when some children stole the dinghy off the back of
s/v Jackfish (of Vancouver) while the captain, Mike, was napping in the
afternoon. Fred assisted Mike, and they
found the boat, with the engine removed and broken, up a little creek in the
village of Gros Islet. At any rate, Fred
has picked up a reputation for boundless energy, volunteerism, and “First
Responder”. He has been joined by his
wife Sandy while here in Martinique, and is part of our larger group of
cruisers.
Besides that, we have not much to report. We have carried on with lunch engagements
ashore (and weekly Ladies’ Luncheons), walks, hikes, toasts to sunsets, and
even a dinghy drift; as people arrive and depart around us. Dawn, with a chronic FOMO problem (fear of
missing out), tends to accept most invitations and even create some
events.
The hikes have been amazing events, now that some of the
rain has subsided. We have had numbers
as high as 23, as we have made our way along various hikes on the east coast
and up the largest local peak (Creve Coeur – or Broken Heart). I do worry that the walking and climbing has
resulted in me wearing a knee brace – something I have not had to do for many
years – suggesting I am wearing out.
Check out the pictures of the groups and views.
A group of us doing a steep mountain hiking trail |
A larger group doing a flatter but much longer hike along the coast! How's 5 hours???! |
Lorna and Dawn hiking with a cutie patootie doing a photo bomb in the background! Thanks Steve!! |
We also rented a van for 8 of us, and went to tour a local
historic distillery and museum. That may
be enough distillery tours, as they are all beginning to look the same: glorious old boilers and steam engines, with
more modern equipment and evaporation towers next door, and typically a spirit
house filled with aging rum in wooden kegs, giving off good smelling spirits
(often smells like rum cake, Hugh!). The
grounds of the distillery (Clement Rum) also included the beautiful original
plantation estate house, lovely gardens, intriguing exterior artworks and interior
art. We also toured a fantastic ruin of
a hotel on a hill, and the largest mall on the island for provisioning. The road trip took us into very hilly country,
with a side road that went along a ridge with the opportunity to free-fall the
van down either side. Between that and
me having a terrible time getting use to the touchy brakes and clutch, the
van-full were a little stressed. I
likely stalled the vehicle over a dozen times; starting with twice just trying
to get over a speed bump 30 feet away from the rental place.
We are really thinking it is time to move on; and when the
wind dies next week, we will surely go around the corner to an uncrowded, quiet
place for snorkeling and boat bottom-cleaning.
Brian standing in front of the derelict plantation we found while renting a van |
Got rum??? Let's not forget, this is French rum, not to be confused with the English rum we all love! |
Princess Lorna being delivered to her boat in style! |
TECHNICAL
After the replacement of the starboard alternator with the
little 35 ampere spare, that alarm stopped.
However, a low pressure alarm started to chirp, blink, and buzz at low
RPM. As I had replaced the sender (no
guage, just a sender) two years earlier, and the new oil and filter had not
even seen 20 hours, I really assumed it must be the pump or an oil leak. However, I tried another pressure sender, and
the noise and light stopped. Bad luck or
poor quality control for the manufacturer, Sierra Industries.
Otherwise, we are caught up with our repairs and chores but
for day-to-day items. I cannot remember
this happening before. Luckily, l have
some delaminating flip flops and loose temple on a pair of sunglasses to deal
with today. I could do some sewing and
greasing... (The superstitious among you
may suggest I am tempting fate) Laundry
is scheduled this afternoon at the local Laundromat with Lorna and Brian!