Thursday, March 14, 2013

Enjoying The Grenadines

Free Spirit sailing along with us from Bequia to the Tobago Cays


This morning finds us behind a natural breakwater at Frigate Rock, Union Island, enjoying relatively flat water.  We awoke at first light, got up and warmed the coffee, and took it to the foredeck to drink while we watched John and Alex of Free Spirit arrange their boat for travel and pull up the anchor.  After waving goodbye to them (major goodbyes were said in our cockpit with them and Terry and Kristin of Silk Pajamas last night), I (Laurie) went inside and made a little batch of banana pancakes.   We finished the pancakes just as Denis' Weather Net came on the radio, so we got to hear how Free Spirit was faring just as they were on the horizon off Cariacou.

We have a number of bananas coming ripe today, a number that are over-ripe and just got peeled and put in the fridge, and a fine piece of banana bread that Judy left us; so we'll get all the potassium we'll ever need if we keep up.  Ron and Judy also brought us a can of lobster which we're saving for a special pizza some night.

We arrived here from the Tobago Cays with both Free Spirit and Silk Pajamas, and have had a great visit with all involved.  Although the wind is strong and constant, our new windshield cuts back a lot of it, and makes us feel a lot less stressed by wind than last year.

Judy and Ron left our boat exactly a week ago, with me running them into the Bequia dock and watching them get on to the ferry for the trip to St. Vincent.  They missed the giant manta ray that rolled upside down under my dinghy just as they got out of voice range.  We had a great trip with them, with them bringing a tremendous amount of luck with them.  We had mild to medium winds throughout their trip - that switched from northeast to southeast such that we had a beautiful broad reach to the Tobago Cays and another broad reach back to Bequia days later.  We also had great fishing, with exciting strikes and two lovely black-fin tuna brought aboard. 

We got to see Al and Michele of Easy Listening (Lunenburg) in the Cays, and showed them the reef with the tame fish (Al said:  "This is the best snorkelling EVER!"); before saying goodbye to them.  They're heading down to Grenada for a March haulout.  Interestingly, just as we said goodbye to Ron and Judy, we also met up with Al and Michele of Tarantella (Halifax) (Michele is Brenda Cummings' younger sister).  Although we owe them a supper, it was not to be, as they also are on the fast-track for a haulout, and our friends on Free Spirit arrived after a rush down the islands from the Virgins.  Busy social life here.  We did get another hike up to Peggy's Rock; this time with the Haligonian Michele as well as Terry and Kristin.  Kristin was suffering from FOMO (fear of missing out), and absolutely had to do the hike after hearing about it.

We "buddy-boated" with Free Spirit back down to the Cays on Sunday, enjoying the perfect winds and playing with different sail configurations alongside them.  We got to the Cays by mid-afternoon and joined Terry and Kristin who arrived the day before.  The Cays were as rough as any of us had ever seen them, with both northerly swells and wind-driven waves coming over the horseshoe reefs and causing tremendous surface turbulence.  Cat Tales rattled, and the monohullers all said they did even worse.  We got together for a fantastic meal in our cockpit on Monday night, and really caught up with each other.   It was only 10:30 when the cockpit cleared, but all were in high spirits. That's late for us down here, since we refer to 9:00 as being the 'cruiser's midnight'!

A bit of drama occurred at 2 a.m., when a charter boat drifted down sideways and caught their beam bang on to the bow of Silk Pajamas.  I had heard the commotion and was in the cockpit to see and hear the impact.  The bow of the boat continued the attack down their port side, as the boat drifted by sideways to the wind,  and then drifted off into the night.  Kristin, who also heard the commotion,  was able to mitigate only half of the attack along the side with a fender, but could do nothing about the bow impact.  We and other boats watched as we saw that their drift was checked and their boat straightened out and bobbed like the other monohulls in the washboard seas, just feet ahead of the shallows of Jamesby Island, downwind of all of us.  None of us wished to venture out in the wild, dark seas to check on them, and they would not answer the radio on any channel.  We all went to bed, and in the morning, could still see them just short of the island. 

Terry and Kristin dinghied down to talk to the German couple who were chartering the boat around 9 a.m., after the couple didn't make the appropriate and expected visit to Silk Pajamas.  The couple were apparently rather shy about the event, but suggested they had simply dragged down, and their propeller was fouled by their dinghy line.  It was all BS, as their anchor was on the bow during the accident, and they were drifting fast, beam to the wind.  More likely, at 2 a.m., they had enough of the motion of the anchorage, and lifted anchor to look for another, quieter spot; and forgot to shorten their dinghy line.  Given that:  charterers are seldom allowed to move their boats at night, it is unlikely that sailing vacationers remain totally sober, charterers are less acclimatized to motion, the anchor was on the bow, the boat was moving fast totally sideways;  this makes more sense.  As it was, in the rather unstable seas, our own evening's fun may have been a little irresponsible.  

 I am most angered by the couple's unwillingness to turn their radio on to alert us that they were ok, and likely to survive the night; and would like to fill their ears with my opinion with significant decibels.  We all called often and for some time after the incident, and worried that we were not doing more.  It is, however, the norm for most boaters down here to only turn on the radio when it suits them; and the concept of "I'll be here for you if you'll be here for me" falls on deaf ears, even among our closer friends.  One captain friend even admitted to sleeping with earplugs to get a better sleep!

After the incident, we all decided to leave the sloppy water of the Cays and come to Frigate Rock.  We've hiked to Clifton where John checked out and I got an extension to stay, and also had a great lunch at the Anchorage Yacht Club.  There has also been time to read, skin dive, and carry out minor boat chores.

Kristin and Terry have been in touch with the charter company and their own experts regarding the damage.  They have a significant bruise a little to the side of the forestay chainplate as a result of the impact, and are choosing the lighter winds tomorrow to return to Bequia to have it inspected.  The concern is that the glass into which the bolts are bedded may have been softened or compromised.  They expect to be back in the area on Tuesday.  Until that, Dawn and I will just take it easy here, unless of course an extemporaneous social event takes place - an almost expected occurrence.
  

Smile for the camera!!