Enjoying the Grenadines

Sorry, no pics, as we just don't have the bandwidth. Terrible, too; as we have some doozies. Laurie here.

We're back in behind Frigate Rock, Union Island, having arrived yesterday. Right now, we just got back from hiking up a hill beside Mount Taboi. It was quite a hike to well over 800 feet, to a mountain top that was bald basalt, overlooking, almost straight down, the little hamlet of Ashton. The views were spectacular, with us overlooking the Tobago Cays, and all the major islands in the Grenadines. How about that; Dawn and I getting off the boat, hiking and climbing for over two hours, and back to the boat before noon? Thirsty work, as one can imagine ;-). Just as well we're back, as a squall is about to hit the boat. (I just got my naked arse soaked closing the windshield zippers.

Last Saturday, with Silk Pajamas going north to get their chainplate inspected after their collision, and Free Spirit heading south to be hauled out, we headed to Petite Martinique for supplies. The tiny island of Petite Martinique was once one of the smuggling capitals of the Caribbean, with boats hauling the booze from here to many other ports for smuggling into dry USA. It is suggested many boats from eastern Canada made the trip. For us, many years later, it may just be a coincidence that we picked up wine, beer, and rum at prices seldom seen any where else in the Caribbean; but yippee for us! (Actually, nobody beats the French ports for wine).

We stayed on a mooring for only one night, to take advantage of a restaurant ashore. The food was actually only so-so, not counting fantastic callaloo soup, but the tables were under individual roofs in a very pleasant, well kept garden, right off the beach. Before we left the next morning, we hiked completely around the island. It was a beautiful hike, only spoiled by a "special needs" man who walked with us for a while. Although he was almost assuredly harmless, his magnificent, large physique, and very tiny head, coupled with his inability to communicate did make us a little cautious, as we left the road and hiked into brush. He followed for about 20 minutes, then disappeared behind us as the path got steep.

We left Petite Martinique and motored to Petite Saint Vincent, only a mile or so away, and anchored in beautiful, shallow, white sand for three more nights. It is known as a Boutique Resort Island, with little cottages being run from a central establishment. If the guests need anything, they are to raise a flag on a pole, and a butler or whatever will drive a little golf cart to visit. We would be allowed ashore, just to the restaurant, only in reasonable attire; and Cat Tales has not much of that on board. We swam and read, and took one more trip to Petite Martinique when the wine prices haunted us again; this time by dinghy. We found a second restaurant on the island with the best value found on the islands this year. Dawn had chicken, of course, for only 15.00 EC and a couple of beers for 5.00 each. That amounts to about 10.00 Canadian! The plate was loaded too, with salad, macaroni pie, plantain, rice and of course chicken. I had the fish, which was fabulous!

Yesterday, after arriving back here on Union, we hiked over to Clifton for cash, bananas, and a lunch. Once more we were joined in our hike by a local, this one also a giant, but stark raving mad and paranoid. As he was scaring Dawn with his nudging up to us, jabbering away about who did what to him and how he was going to get back at them, I kept suggesting he should calm down and be less angry. It didn't help. While he was talking to the sky for a bit, Dawn suggested that we jump on the next bus (van) going to Clifton. After a bit, we hopped on a bus to avoid him, and he jumped on as well! He sat himself down directly behind the 2 of us. We hopped off at a restaurant, and he told the driver I would pay his way. Angry words developed, but by then, we were in the restaurant and out of harm's way. He was known by the people in the restaurant, who suggested he has "uncollected thoughts". We spotted him later on at a bar and quickly diverted to the back streets to find our bananas and cash machine.

For the vast most part, people on these islands are friendly and helpful; sometimes a little more aggressive in search for business, but one tends to be forgiving in that regard. They have terrible problems with poverty, unemployment, lack of education, and likely many family issues as well, if one listens to the bragging men. One thing that isn't talked about is the possible lack of diversity in the genes over the last two hundred years. We see too many albinos, deaf people, and confused people. Indeed, on Union Island, there are so many people talking to imaginary friends along the road that it might have been another good place to pick out a Pope. Again, I insist that we have had no incidents and the majority of the people are friendly, helpful, and good to meet.