The trip from the Saints to Basse Terre on the mainland of Guadeloupe had us surfing down large waves with 20 knots on our starboard quarter. We had our main down to the third reef, and just a little bit of jib, but we still averaged about 8 knots. Since we have not been able to sail at that angle for a long while, it was quite interesting. We would see a large, angry-looking wave come barrelling towards our stern as if to wipe us off the sea, but at the last moment it would gently lift our stern and slide under us. Now and again one would give our salon floor a playful slap.
Three hours after we started, we were at Basse Terre. However, the boat we were travelling with, Nahanni River, had determined they didn’t like the proposed anchorage. They suggested another hour of travel up the coast, and we agreed to follow. Winds were fluky: sometimes 25 knots, sometimes none; but with our little sail plan, it was quite pleasant. We stayed just a few hundred metres from shore, and coasted along, binoculars in hand.
Anse a la Barque was an amazing little anchorage with absolutely no waves, swells, and little wind. After the Saintes, it was heaven. We snorkelled, walked the roads to little communities and generally just cooled down. The snorkelling was so-so, with pretty fish, and turtles; but also with interesting rock structures. As we had been missing this, however, it was quite enjoyable.
Hawkesbill turtle seen at Anse a la Barque
These hogfish were seen at Anse a la Barque
We also got to hop on a bus and go to Basse Terre. For a population of 18 000, it has 3 times the retail space of Fredericton, and 10 times the retail of downtown Fredericton. A large open market, with fruits, vegetables, and other products, is available every day. The seaside boulevard, generous public works, and artwork also stand out.
Along the street in Basse Terre a plant grows right out of the concrete, not out of the window. The seed must have been caught behind the telephone wire. Amazing how we'd have to work pretty hard to raise such a healthy plant at home!
Here is a close-up of the plant.
After a few days, we moved another hour north to the Jacques Cousteau Underwater Park, around Pigeon Island. We went direct to a mooring ball for yachts, and dove in. Satisfaction usually equals anticipation minus reality, and in this case it was true. We were expecting fantastic views, protected fish that grew to full size, and excellent colours in fish and coral. We got clear, deep water, but little to no coral, and a poor nursery of fish. As we were doing our best to find something noteworthy, we just about got run over by a giant glass-bottom boat, full of tourists. Oh well, I guess it beats Friday morning at work in Fredericton.
This site seeing boat came out of nowhere and blew it's horn to warn us to move while we swam. Neither of us heard its engine as it approached.
The bottom of the boat was clear and if you really look, you can see all the people inside sitting in their seats looking down at the coral and fish and us!
The anchorage a mile away on the mainland was quite nice, with a sandy beach frequented by both locals and tourists, and the supporting restaurants, curio shops, and dive shop. The guide also mentioned a hike that started at the beach, so Dawn and I geared up to do it the next day.
It was a two-hour hike along the coast, rising from sea level to 500 feet or so, kind of regularly as it went up and down the edges of the seaside cliffs. You’d think we could manage to find our way, but no: we got lost three times, and it took us 4 hours. In one case, we followed what we thought was a trail, but it was a cleared out property line for surveyors; and we found ourselves scrambling over sharp volcanic rocks bigger than SUVs. By the time we walked back to our bay (we chose to walk the road on the return), we were soaking wet and truly beat up. We had a nice seaside late lunch, though, and actually were proud of ourselves for our efforts.
This is part of the easier section of the trail!
We took this shot of our anchorage on the way back to the boat. The road on the way back was hilly, but it was nothing in comparison to what we had just covered on the trails.
Today finds us in Deshaies, another hour and a half up the coast, and finally with internet. We already have plans to hike, rent a car, see a falls or two, and take in a botanical garden. Doug and Wendy are leaving here in the morning for Antigua as the weather looks good for travel and their company arrives soon. We’ll spend another week here before heading north.
Check out this nice little rig we saw along our way this morning. Where do they find such tiny people to stand at the bow?
I should say as well, that we have had nothing but great experiences with the people of Guadaloupe. They have been excellent ambassadors, and very patient with my attempts at the French language.
