Yesterday, after going ashore and checking into Customs (la Douane), we went directly for a new hiking route. It started at the north edge of Deshaies, and climbed steeply the 205 metres up the mountain called Gros Morne (which in French seems to mean "big and dreary"). It was super steep, on both sides, but we did it, albeit stopping to catch both our breath and our balance. On the far side, just before the final descent to the Grande Anse beach, was a small cannon battery that was made into a very delightful park.
Here is Cat Tales and the mountain behind her is the way to the beach. There is a nicely marked trail through the woods up and over. Here we go...
This is the beginning of the trail (about an hour walk)
Part way up the mountain, here's a view of the bay we're leaving as we head to Grand Anse beach on the other side.
A tease of what's to come!
A view of the beach from the trail
Looking back at the mountain we hiked to get to the beach
Just a little up the beach, we stopped to inspect a little restaurant, hoping to find an appropriate place to enjoy with Hugh and Liz when they visit in March. It looked a little "past due", but we went in, giving it the benefit of the doubt. The proprietor, a big man, working alone with only his swimsuit, had already lit the barbecue. He had thrown charcoal, bag and all into the unit, and all was smouldering away, making the whole restaurant area quite uninhabitable. I challenged the smoke, and asked for two "Corsair" beers, cold. He opened up a freezer, and after digging, brought out two 1/2 litre German beers, and said (I think) they were the only truly cold beers. I gave him a 10 Euro bill, and he put his pants on to allow him to go through the pockets for change. He had none, so pushed the only other two patrons to pay early so he could provide me with the other 4 Euros. We sat outside, out of the smoke, and enjoyed the cold beers. The proprietor , finding his barbecue was warming up, brought out some chicken pieces in a large pail, placing them over the smoke. He then threw the bloody water left in the pail onto the sand at the entrance of the restaurant area. Possibly this was laziness, possibly it was dust control... Dawn noticed he went from that to wiping down some tables with a rag, without washing his hands from the chicken first. Then a small herd of pigs emerged from the woods and had a romp through the restaurant (actually, they truly startled us as they emerged from the underbrush). We had to say, they kind of picked the place up a bit. There was no menu, but the proprietor suggested his specialty was chicken colombo (we were surprised it wasn't pork). We'll wait to hear from Hugh and Liz to see if this place intrigues them.
We walked further down the beach, and at the far end were many restaurants, also just off the beach, and a larger crowd to watch in the surf. We've tried these restaurants, and will likely suggest to Hugh and Liz that they're worth the extra half-mile walk.
We both enjoyed a swim - I also played in the surf until one wave wiped me out pretty bad, and delivered me upside down well up the beach. It took ten minutes of rinsing to get the sand in my hair and pants down to a reasonable amount.
We had a nice walk back to town, and Dawn cooked up a wonderful chicken stirfry, probably better than we could have received in a restaurant.
This is the 'Stad Amsterdam' we saw in Dominica
This one was taken through the binoculars!
