Saturday, March 21, 2009

Hiking, The Culture, John, Boat Boys and More Dental Work

We've been going ashore for hikes of late. We had been motivated by another couple of cruisers, who apparently have signed up to test LL Bean footwear products the hard way. They described an easy hike to the east coast, and we attempted to set out on it on this past Monday.

First attempt had us on the wrong road, and we had a long hot walk through the hilly, rural inland. We were happy that there was not much traffic, but nor was there much to see. We did see what must be the largest structure on the island, their massive cricket stadium. It is beautiful, and sits all alone and lonely in a valley, waiting between matches.

The second attempt got us on the correct but dusty road, and we made it to Cas en Bas, also known as Cotton Bay. It is a pretty bay, but ripe for development, with new roads all over the place. A nice lady has a long-standing beach bar, and asked us to sign a petition to help stop her eviction by the new developers. I signed, adding a note that it was illogical to carry out development that tends to suppress existing local entrepreneurs. However, once back among the local cruisers who tend to
make this area their constant winter home, we learned that the old girl had been offered a part in the new development and had turned this and subsequent offers down. She, like many, expects to be made quite rich, just for sitting on land others want to develop. Considering she only leases it, we no longer feel as much concern for her. It is like Bounty, the Dominican boat boy we reported on in 2005. He expects one day that a developer will give him a million for the 8' x 12' property he owns
on the beach in Prince Rupert Bay.

We also attempted a hike further to the north of the west side of the island. We didn't find too much to comment on. Like the other two hikes, we did see poverty, abused and neglected horses, goats, and dogs, outrageous construction, sewage in the ditches, and way too much litter. Dawn is concerned that I let this stuff get to me. I know this is a beautiful island, with mostly nice people. The resorts and gated communities are managed and worked by attractive, well groomed and courteous men
and women. People in stores and at work are also courteous. However, there is a seedy side. There are tremendous numbers of unemployed or barely employed men wandering around and "liming". These men are for the most part poorly educated, ignorant, and there is an awful lack of respect for the fairer sex. The litter is outrageous, and harassment sometimes seems like a hobby for them.

Dawn has her own issues, however. Once more, we are being annoyed by the not-so-young boys who insist on being paid to catch the line of our dinghy at the public dock and to watch it while we are away. Of course, the biggest risk to the dinghy is the buggers themselves. We have heard of one incident, where, after being told they wouldn't be paid to sit by the dinghies, they pissed in them. John Fallon, yesterday, paid two of these guys at a dock, specifically to avoid that! Within minutes, the
two were in the same food court as we were, spending his "tip", so he didn't get much "protection" for the money. Oh well, he didn't get the urine either. When we returned for our dinghy, one of the boys was lounging in one of the nicest dinghies and asked John if he could take his out for a spin. John told him not to get too pushy or he'd have to report him to the authorities. Last night on the VHF radio we heard someone calling for the police. His motor had been stolen from his dinghy. We're
not sure just where this took place, but I might guess the spot!

Speaking of John, he is doing very well. He is off the boat regularly, walking steadily and strongly to wherever his chores and his social life take him. Tomorrow, I think we've reported, his friend John Sinclair arrives, and soon his daughter and her significant other, Robbyn and Tyle, will also be here.

By the way, the tooth filling I had installed in Guadeloupe fell out Thursday night, during a gentle flossing. It was probably loosening up anyway. I was able to find a very lovely and capable dentist, Dr. Michelle. She and her assistant, with their gifted, educated, and small hands, were able to rebuild the side of my molar. She also told me that the amalgam is a poor substitute for the load bearing side of a molar, and that the remedy will be a proper cap, that will take the load to the root
without blowing out. Dr. Biskupski, our Canadian dentist, probably isn't reading this. Likely, we'll make the appointment with her before we get home. She is another gifted dentist with small hands.

A special hello to Kent Ross, VE9KAR, one of our crewmembers for the Atlantic crossing, who called me on the ham radio this morning. Glad to hear you're back in Fredericton and enjoying Michelle's company again.